It's nearly time for the amazing phenomenon of the solstice at Newgrange, Co. Meath. When the tomb was constructed over 5,000 years ago it was built in such a way that sunlight could enter the chamber through a roofbox at dawn on the shortest days of the year.

The entrance to Newgrange passage tomb, the lightbox is the small opening at the top of this image

The light travels through the lightbox, and snakes its way along the passageway before dramatically illuminating the chamber. It is an extraordinary testament to the engineering skills of those who constructed this site over 500 years before the Great Pyramid at Giza was constructed and over a thousand years before Stonehenge.


If you are lucky you can witness this incredible event next Winter by taking part in the annual Newgrange lottery or you can view the event live by Webcast from about 8:30am on the 21st of December.

For a more detailed discussion about this phenomenon I recommend this excellent post by IrishArchaeology.ie

Rathmore Church is situated off the road outside the town of Athboy in rolling Meath pastureland. This wonderful site featured in the news a couple of weeks ago when a medieval carved font was stolen from the church. Thankfully the font was returned after a public campaign was initiated. The font has been moved to a more secure location but this church and graveyard is still well worth a visit. 

The Scene of the Crime! This pedestal marks the place where the font once stood

The church at Rathmore was founded in the 15th century by the Plunkett family and was dedicated to St. Lawrence. The Plunketts resided at Rathmore Castle which is in one of the adjacent fields to the church but now very little remains above ground of the castle. The castle and church were held by the Plunketts for generations until the 17th century when it passed to the Bligh family. There are records of Rectors present at the church until the late 17th century when the church became united with Athboy. The church probably began to fall into ruin after that time.

The church is surrounded by a built up graveyard. Within the graveyard is the remains of a decorated cross. This cross was probably erected for Sir Christopher Plunkett and his wife Catherine in the early 16th century. The figures on the shaft of the cross have been identified as St. Patrick grappling with a snake, St. Lawrence and an abbess or female saint, it is thought that this might be a representation of St. Brigid.
Within the church there are more fantastic medieval carvings. There is a beautiful carving of a labyrinth on the wall of the church. This carving most likely dates to the 15th century and is a motif that is common across Europe. The labyrinth design is a maze, the carved lines lead to the centre. 

The church has an L shape plan and there is a small room to the left of the chancel as you are looking east. This was the sacristy. Steps lead up to a room above the darkened sacristy and this was once the living room of the sacristan or resident priest. There is a fireplace in the wall and steps lead up to another floor, which is now gone. This would have been the bedroom. The sacristy on the ground floor contains a tomb and effigy of Thomas Plunkett and his wife – Marion Cruise. The carving has been defaced and it is difficult to make her out, but the carving of Sir Thomas is in a better state of preservation. He has been carved in full armour and even has his loyal dog at his feet. This tomb originally stood in the church but was moved to the sacristy to protect it from the elements. 

The altar, which stands at the top of the chancel has a range of figures carved onto its surface. This probably dates to the middle or later 15th century and has many saints and ecclesiastic carved on its surface. It also has carvings of the Plunkett coat of arms but it is difficult to make out some of the carvings. At the end of the nave is another doorway which leads you into what would have been the belfry. There are now no floors within this part of the church, but the exterior of the belfry of bell tower is quite well preserved.
 
Another beautiful feature of this site is the east window. It is a wonderful example of stonecraftsmanship and probably dates to the 15th century. On the external wall of the church, there are three stone carved heads around this window. They are depicting quite jolly looking people: a king, queen and ecclesiastic. A similar carving depicting another ecclesiastic is on the western external wall at the opposite end of the church. 

We visited Rathmore last Sunday and found it to be a fantastic place to spend an hour or two with some wonderful examples of medieval stone craftsmanship. To get to Rathmore, travel on the N51 towards Athboy. Take the first left hand turn after the village of Rathmore and park on the verge. The church and graveyard are located in fields on the right hand side of the road. The site is on private land so please make sure to close all the gates behind you.

I hope you enjoy this blog, we're trying to cover as many sites as we can across Ireland. If anyone has any suggestions about sites you'd like us to cover please do leave us a comment. If you enjoy information and images of Irish heritage sites then do follow us on Facebook, Twitter and Google+ If you'd like to support us then please consider downloading an audioguide to one of Ireland's wonderful heritage sites. They are packed with original music and sound effects and are a great way of experiencing the story of Ireland. They only cost €1.99 and are fun whether you are at the site, or listening from the comfort of your own home. Our latest guide is to Viking and Medieval Dublin, visit us at www.abartaaudioguides.com for free previews and to download your free audioguide to the Rock of Dunamase 
All photographs © Neil Jackman / abartaaudioguides.com

The Boyne Valley is one of the most important archaeological landscapes in the world and this region sheltered in a bend of the River Boyne, known as Brú na Bóinne (meaning Palace of the Boyne) is home to three massive Neolithic passage tombs, Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth. A number of smaller tombs and features of huge importance are also contained within this area, but for this blogpost I’ll be focusing on Dowth – perhaps the least understood of the three major tombs. 

The silver ribbon of the Boyne visible from Dowth

Dowth is located around 2km north-east of Newgrange. Unlike Newgrange and Knowth, Dowth has never been properly excavated by archaeologists so there is far less known about the site. However in the middle of the nineteenth century, an extremely large hole was dug into the top of the mound.

Dowth is thought to date to around 5000 years old. It measures approximately 85m (280ft) in diameter and is ringed by 115 kerbstones, some of which display megalithic art. Two tombs are known at the western side of the large mound at Dowth and the setting sun in winter seems to illuminate the southernmost of these. Unfortunately on the day we visited we couldn’t access the passageways of the tombs as they were behind locked gates. The more northerly tomb has an 8m (26ft) long passageway that leads into a cruciform shaped chamber with an annexe leading off it. It also has an early medieval souterrain, probably dating to around the 10th century leading off the passageway. This shows that the tomb was still an important place in the early medieval period and possibly indicates a connection to an ancient monument with folkloric supernatural qualities. The southern passage has a circular chamber with a diameter of 4m (13ft). 

Unlike Knowth there are no satellite tombs immediately outside the great tomb at Dowth, but there are outlying tombs around 0.5km away, and a massive earth embanked henge is located to the east though there is no public access to that site.

A view down the northern passageway through the locked gate

A view down the southern passageway through the locked gate

The entrance to the southern passageway with a large kerbstone bearing cupmarks directly in front of the entrance

Dowth was known in early literature as Dubad and Sid mBresail (the otherworld mound of Bresal). The medieval manuscripts known as Dindseanchas explains how Dowth (Dubad) got its name. They tell the story of how all the men of Ireland were commanded by the King to come together for just one day to build a tower that would reach the heavens. The King's sister secretly used magic and stopped the sun in the sky so that there would be an endless day. As time wore on the men of Ireland became exhausted and realised that they had been tricked. However the magic spell was broken when the King and his sister committed incest. Darkness swiftly covered the land and work on the great mound was abandoned, it was said that Dubad (darkness) would be the name of this place from that day. In his brilliant new publication Archaeology and Celtic Myth, Professor John Waddell of NUI Galway notes the co-incidence that this legend reflects control over time and that archaeological excavation has revealed solar ritual and astronomical reflection in the tombs construction. Giving credit to Professor MJ O’Kelly and J. Carey’s hypothesis that these tales and legends recorded in medieval times might echo the beliefs of Neolithic tomb-builders millennia before.

If you look very carefully you can make out megalithic art on this kerbstone

The construction of the massive passage tombs of the Boyne Valley like Dowth, Knowth and Newgrange possibly indicate a larger-scale social identity. The physical size of these monuments and their complexity in construction suggests that there was an ability to mobilise hundreds of people to work on the tombs. This gives an indication of a concerted effort by a large group. Perhaps suggesting that these early farmers were forming large community groups for mutual support and ritual practices.

Dowth is free to access and there are no on-site guides, though the nearby Brú na Bóinne visitor centre gives a really good overview of the archaeology and history of these fascinating sites. A day out to the visitor centre to see Newgrange and Knowth and then a short drive to see Dowth is one of the most atmospheric and rewarding days you can have. I highly recommend it! For more information on the Visitor Centre please see here.

I hope you enjoy our blog, and if you have any suggestions for historical sites you’d like me to cover please do get in touch at info@abartaaudioguides.com. If you'd like to support us please check out our acclaimed series of audioguides to Ireland’s heritage sites, they are packed with original music and sound effects and a really fun and immersive way of exploring Ireland’s past. They are available from www.abartaheritage.ie.
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Some Sources and Further Reading

Cooney, G. 2000. Landscapes of Neolithic Ireland (Routledge, London)
Cooney, G. and Grogan, E. 1999. Irish Prehistory; A Social Perspective (Wordwell, Wicklow).
Herity, M. and Eogan. G. 1996. Ireland in Prehistory (Routledge, London)
Waddell, J. 2014. Archaeology and Celtic Myth (Four Courts Press, Dublin).

Bective Abbey is another fantastic heritage site located in the valley of the River Boyne. It was founded in 1147 by the King of Meath, Murchad Ua Máel Sechnaill and given to the Cistercian Order. Bective was the 'daughter house' of Mellifont, the first Cistercian foundation in Ireland. Unlike many other Cistercian foundations which typically sought out wilderness and isolation, Bective was positioned on superb agricultural land, and quickly rose to prominence as an important ecclesiastical centre. Indeed Bective was high status enough, that the powerful Norman Lord of Meath, Hugh de Lacy had his remains interred at Bective for a while before he was eventually finally reburied with his wife at (the now demolished) St. Thomas's Abbey in Dublin. 

By the sixteenth century, the Cistercians of Bective Abey had become wealthy from rents, tithes and donations. At the time that Bective was dissolved during the Dissolution of the Monasteries in the middle of the sixteenth century, it was recorded that the estate of Bective contained 1580 acres valued at £83 18s 8p. The Abbey and its possessions were purchased in 1552 by Andrew Wyse, but he seems to have come into financial difficulties soon after and Bective changed hands a number of times, before becoming transformed into a manor in the early seventeenth century. It came into the hands of the Bolton family, and was eventually donated to the State in 1894.

The extensive ruins that you can explore today at Bective tell the story of both the Cistercian monastic site and the private home. The cloisters are superbly well preserved, and you may recognise them featuring in the Mel Gibson film Braveheart.
The site is a great place to visit and is part of a densely packed medieval landscape – close to Trim Castle, The Priory Hospital of St. John the Baptist and The Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul.

It is free to enter all year round and is very easy to find, as it is well signposted from the R161 between Trim and Navan in County Meath. The Office of Public Works have installed a small carpark and path at the site so it is very accessible. The have been a series of excavations conducted at Bective Abbey by Geraldine and Matthew Stout, and you can read all about their fantastic discoveries on their blog http://bective.wordpress.com/ which also gives you a nice insight into the on-site life of an archaeologist in Ireland.

I hope you enjoy this blog, we're trying to cover as many sites as we can across Ireland. If anyone has any suggestions about sites you'd like us to cover please do leave us a comment. If you enjoy information and images of Irish heritage sites then do follow us on Facebook, Twitter and Google+If you'd like to support us then please consider downloading an audioguide to one of Ireland's wonderful heritage sites. They are packed with original music and sound effects and are a great way of experiencing the story of Ireland. They only cost €1.99 and are fun whether you are at the site, or listening from the comfort of your own home. Our latest guide is to Viking and Medieval Dublin, visit us at www.abartaaudioguides.com for free previews and to download your free audioguide to the Rock of Dunamase. 

All photographs © Neil Jackman / abartaaudioguides.com

If you plan your walk in the evening you'll be rewarded with breathtaking sunsets over the Boyne and medieval buildings

The town of Trim in County Meath is the site of the largest Norman Castle in Ireland. It was built by the powerful Hugh de Lacy in the late twelfth century. Although Trim Castle is a popular spot, few visitors realise that there is a wonderful River Walk adjacent to the castle that is one of the nicest strolls in Ireland. The route is popular with locals, and every time I’ve taken it I’ve seen a number of joggers, dog-walkers and families enjoying this wonderful amenity.

Before you set off though try and fit in a tour of Trim Castle itself as you will enjoy one of the best guided tours in Ireland (disclaimer, I used to work as a guide here so I’m a little biased). I’ll cover the castle and its history in a separate blogpost, it is undoubtedly one of my favourite heritage sites.

You can enjoy wonderful views of the castle from the vantage point of the River Walk

When you have finished your tour of the castle, go back to the carpark and cross the small wooden bridge over the Boyne. As you cross the wooden bridge, take a moment to look at the stone bridge that will be on your left. This bridge was constructed some time between 1330 – 1350 and it still carries traffic today, they certainly built to last in medieval Ireland!

The fourteenth century bridge over the Boyne

The Yellow Steeple

The tall stone tower opposite the castle is known locally as The Yellow Steeple. It too dates to the fourteenth century (thought to be constructed around 1368–70). It was the bell tower of the Augustinian Abbey of St. Mary’s that once stood opposite the castle. At 40m (131ft) tall, the Yellow Steeple is said to be the tallest medieval building still standing in Ireland. There are little visible remains of the other buildings of St. Mary’s, though Talbot’s Castle, the fine fortified townhouse to the left of the Yellow Steeple, is thought to have incorporated abbey buildings. Talbot’s Castle was built shortly after the Dissolution of the Monasteries in the 1540s. It was said to have been once the home of the famous satirist Jonathan Swift, author of Gulliver’s Travels. He was the vicar of Laracor on the outskirts of Trim in 1670.

Talbot's Castle, once the home of Jonathan Swift

The Sheep Gate (right of foreground) with Trim Castle in the background

The stone gate that straddles the path is called the ‘Sheep Gate’. Like the majority of medieval towns, Trim was surrounded by a defensive wall. As well as providing extra fortifications to protect the townspeople at times of conflict, the wall also served as a clear boundary between the town and countryside, where people entering the town could expect to be under different rules and regulations. The gateways served as control points, where tolls and taxes could be easily collected. The low stretch of stone wall running up the slope from the Sheep Gate is the remains of the once strong defensive walls, and the Sheep Gate itself is the only surviving medieval gate into Trim.

The path of The River Walk, winding its way alongside the Boyne

As you continue along the path following the bank of the river you can find a number of information panels that inform you about life here in the medieval period. After walking for around 15mins you will eventually come to the The Cathedral of Saints Peter and Paul at Newtown. The Cathedral was founded by the Norman Bishop, Simon de Rochfort, in around 1206.

The Nave of the Cathedral catching the last rays of the sun. 

Lovely medieval sculpture of an angel inside the Cathedral of Saints Peter & Paul

Although only parts of the nave and chancel survive today, it is easy to get the impression of just how massive this cathedral would have been. You can still see many of the fine decorative flourishes in the stonework, and it has lovely lancet windows. The piscina where the priest used to wash the holy vessels during the mass is also still well preserved.

The 'Tomb of the Jealous Man' at Newtown Trim

Just beyond the Cathedral remains you can find a small parish church that probably dates to the later fifteenth century. This site is famous for the remarkable 16th Century tomb of Sir Lucas Dillon and his wife, Lady Jayne Bathe. The two stone effigies on the tomb are separated by a sword of state. The tomb is known locally as 'The Tomb of the Jealous Man and Woman', it is believed that instead of signifying the sword of state, the sword actually represents Sir Lucas' displeasure at his wife for having an affair, forever separating the two. It is believed that the tomb possesses a cure for warts and skin complaints. Rub your wart on a pin and leave the pin on top of the tomb, as the pin rusts the wart withers and falls off. I cannot speak personally for whether this works, but I did notice a large number of pins on the tomb!

The Priory Hospital of John the Baptist.

Further along the path and just over a small medieval bridge, you come to remarkable ruins of The Priory and Hospital of St. John the Baptist. The Priory was founded in the early thirteenth century by Simon de Rochfort for the Order of the Crutched Friars (Fratres Cruciferi). As well as being a monastery and guesthouse for pilgrims, the site also served as a hospital. The Order of the Crutched friars were just one of a number of religious orders that were brought to Ireland by the Normans following their invasion. They also brought the Knights Templar, the Hospitalliers and Trinitarians, as well as strongly supporting the expansion of religious orders like the Augustinians, Benedictines and Cistercians who already had a foothold in Ireland prior to the Norman invasion.

Inside the Priory Hospital of St. John the Baptist

The site was excavated by David Sweetman in 1984, he discovered the remains of a fifteenth century rood-screen that separated the nave from the choir, and a doorway in the gable end of the nave. He also found the remains of a tower leading to a room over the sacristy and part of the original domestic range to the north-east of the choir. Today you can still find the nave and chancel and a striking three-light window in the eastern wall. The large rectangular three-storey tower is 15th century, and was likely to have been domestic quarters.

You can still make out sections of the later 16th century enclosing walls that surround the site, and one small corner turret is still standing today in the western side of the field. The priory was dissolved during the Reformation in 1541, and was converted to being a private residence.

All of these sites are fantastic to explore, the walk from the castle carpark to the Priory Hospital will take around 30–35mins and there is a great old pub, Marcey Reagan’s directly across from the last stop so you can reward yourself before retracing your steps back along the path.

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Some Sources and Recommended Reading:

Halpin, A and Newman, C. 2006. Ireland: An Oxford Archaeological Guide (Oxford University Press, New York).

Potterton, M. and Seaver, M. (eds) 2009. Uncovering Medieval Trim, Archaeological Excavations in  and around Trim, Co. Meath. (Four Courts Press, Dublin).

Potterton, M. 2005. Medieval Trim: History and Archaeology (Four Courts Press, Dublin)

Ireland is particularly blessed with some incredible prehistoric passage tomb cemeteries, Carrowmore and Carrowkeel in Sligo, the famous Brú na Bóinne (Bend of the Boyne) sites including Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth, and this one, Loughcrew near the village of Oldcastle in County Meath. Passage tombs are named after the passageway that generally leads to a burial chamber covered by a circular mound. The mound may be of earth like the examples at Newgrange or Knowth, or stone cairns like this example at Loughcrew. The passageways are generally narrow, lined with orthostats (upright slabs) and roofed with lintels (flat slabs).

The most striking features of the archaeological landscape of Loughcrew are the three large cairns that dominate the summit of three steep hills, Patrickstown, Carnbane West and Carnbane East. It is Carnbane East that is most visited as it has the largest of the tombs, Cairn T, that appears to be the focal point of the whole cemetery.

Cairn T dates back to approximately 3000 BC. On the summit of Carnbane East, Cairn T is surrounded by a number of smaller tombs. The large cairn measures around 35m in diameter and this passage tomb has a cruciform shaped chamber and some of the finest examples of Neolithic art in Ireland. If you visit during the Autumn or Vernal (Spring) equinox you can witness sunlight entering the chamber to illuminate the inside of the tomb.

Entering the tomb itself is an incredible experience, the passageway is lined with large orthostats that display intricate carvings, wherever you look you see spirals, lines, lozenges, zigzags, circles and cup marks.

The artwork was embedded into the stones by picking, pecking and incising with a harder stone tool, and often uses the natural contours of the stone as design features. Many of the symbols at Loughcrew are found at the other passage tomb sites in Ireland.
What all these symbols mean is difficult to ascertain,  some believe that they represent the artwork produced during states of altered consciousness, perhaps through shamanic ritual or consumption of mind-altering mushrooms or herbs.

Perhaps they were abstract representations of astronomical features, or perhaps simply abstract art (though as the symbols appear regularly at a number of passage tomb sites from this period surely the symbols had real meaning).

I think that looking at the spectacular equinox stone, that the symbols look to be representing natural plants, fruits, ferns and flowers. Perhaps the famous spirals and circles of megalithic art represent tree rings, a visible marker of the passing of time for these Neolithic farmers.

Sunlight illuminates this beautifully decorated Equinox Stone at the Autumn and Spring Equinox

If the depictions on the equinox stone are plant life, it makes sense in a way that these symbols are illuminated at the Spring equinox when the land begins to come to life again, and the Autumnal equinox when the rich bounty of the land can be harvested.

I must state though, these are just theories. To paraphase the famous archaeologist George Eogan, who excavated the passage tomb at Knowth, we can never discover what any of the artwork truly means as it is impossible for us to known the minds and emotions of a people who did not know how to write and who are separated from us by 4000 years.

A decorated lintel stone above one of the chambers, see how they used the natural contours of the rock as part of the design

The Hag's Chair is one of the kerbstones that surround Cairn T, it displays megalithic art but unfortunately the carvings are very difficult to make out today, though you can just about make it out in the picture below. More clear is the cross inscribed on the seat, it possibly represents the use of the stone as a Mass Rock during penal times. It was possibly also used as a ceremonial or inauguration chair during the early medieval period.

The 'Hag's Chair', can you make out the megalithic art near the base of the stone? Circles, spirals and cup marks can be seen

The Irish name of Loughcrew, Slieve na Calliagh is thought to derive from Sliabh na Cailli, – The Hill of the Witch. Folklore has it that the monuments at Loughcrew were formed when a witch called An Cailleach Bhéara, was challenged to drop an apron full of stones on each of the three Loughcrew peaks, if she succeeded she would be proclaimed the ruler of all Ireland. She was successful on the first two peaks, but missed the third and fell to her death. An early eighteenth century poem commonly attributed to Jonathan Swift recounts the tale:

Determined now her tomb to build,
Her ample skirt with stones she filled,
And dropped a heap on Carnmore;
Then stepped one thousand yards, to Loar,
And dropped another goodly heap;
And then with one prodigious leap
Gained Carnbeg; and on its height
Displayed the wonders of her might.

And when approached death’s awful doom,
Her chair was placed within the womb
Of hills whose tops with heather bloom.

Poem via the excellent Voices from the Dawn website

Loughcrew is one of the most rewarding sites to visit in Ireland, and a true must-see for anyone who visits the Boyne Valley. In comparison to Newgrange, Loughcrew is rarely visited, and you can enjoy perhaps a more intimate experience with the Neolithic passage tomb builders. If you visit between the 30th May and 28th August you can avail of free guided tours by Office of Public Works staff (see here for more details), if you visit before or after those dates you can get the key by leaving a deposit with Loughcrew Gardens so you can enter the tomb yourself, it is such a wonderful experience I cannot recommend it highly enough. You will find Loughcrew at these co-ordinates 53.744672,-7.112483, about 3km south-east of Oldcastle off the R163 in County Meath (see our map for more details).

There is a small carpark at the bottom of the hill, but no toilet or facilities are on site. Cairn T is at the summit of a steep hill, so please wear suitable footwear and follow the wooden directional stakes to the top. You will be rewarded by some spectacular views of County Meath as well as encountering a truly wonderful archaeological site.

I hope you enjoy this blog, we're trying to cover as many sites as we can across Ireland. If anyone has any suggestions about sites you'd like us to cover please do leave us a comment. If you enjoy information and images of Irish heritage sites then do follow us on Facebook, Twitter and Google+ If you'd like to support us then please consider downloading an audioguide to one of Ireland's wonderful heritage sites. They are packed with original music and sound effects and are a great way of experiencing the story of Ireland. They only cost €1.99 and are fun whether you are at the site, or listening from the comfort of your own home. If you enjoy stories of the turbulent medieval period in Ireland try our guide to Viking and Medieval Dublin, visit us at www.abartaaudioguides.com for free previews and to download your free audioguide to the Rock of Dunamase  or the free audioguide to the wonderful heritage town of Kells in County Meath

All photographs © Neil Jackman / abartaaudioguides.com

More visitors enjoying the spectacular views from Loughcrew