Showing posts with label Eiger. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Eiger. Show all posts

More on The Eiger Obession


I first comment on John Harlin III's new book The Eiger Obsession a week or two back when there was an excerpt from the book on Outside Online. Now, GreatOutdoors.com is getting in on the action with a brief introduction to the book as well as the IMAX film that acts as a companion to it. You'll also find two audio interviews with Harlin as he discusses what The Eiger, and climbing it means to him.

For those who don't know, Harlin's father, John Harlin II, was one of the great climbers in the Alps druing the late 50's and early 60's. He put up new routes on a number of faces, and was as well known for his climbing as his "movie star" good looks. John Harlin II had a fixation on putting up a route on the Eiger that became known ad the Eiger Direct, which was essentially climbing a line straight to the top instead of winding all over the face as the Classic Route does. While attempting just such a route, with climbing legends Dougal Haston and Chris Bonnington no less, he lost his life. The team ultimately completed the climb, but he was not there to see it. Since then, John Harlin III has always had the shadow of the Eiger looming over him, and he knw that eventually he would have to climb it. The book follows him through that climb.

I'm currently reading the book and hope to have a review up within the next week. As I'm currenlty halfway through it however, I can safely say that it's a great read with a nice mix of biography for Harlin's father as well as well as his own struggles on the Eiger as he faces those demons of the mountain that killed his father. Good stuff.

The Alps: "A Gorgeous Homage to Alpine Climbing"


International Herald Tribune has posted an AP story on the new IMAX film The Alps which I've mentioned briefly a few times already. This is the film that follows John Harlin III up The Eiger on the same route that killed his father nearly 40 years ago. The climb was the inspiration for Harlin's book The Eiger Obsession.

The article talks about Harlin climbing in his father's footsteps, even as his own nine year old daughter watches through a telescope from the chalet below. Harlin III was nine years old himself when his father fell off the face of the Eiger while pursuing his dream to climb the "Eiger Direct" route.

This is the first "review" of the film that I've seen however, and it comes across as nothing short of glowing. The film looks great, as you would expect from an IMAX film, and goes to great lengths to capture an accurate portrayal of what it's like to climb a big mountain face in the Alps. The BIGGEST face in the Alps as a matter of fact.

The film sounds amazing, and I can't wait to see it. Unfortunately, it isn't playing in my area yet, nor is listed on the IMAX website, so I'm not sure when it's coming. But I'll keep my eyes peeled, and when I do get a chance to see it, I'll be sure to post my thoughts here. I'm also plugging away on the book, but with a busy week ahead, I'm not sure I'll be able to post a review before I leave for Kili on Saturday. With a little luck, I'll get it finished, otherwise I'll have to post it upon my return.

Video: Speed Flying Descent on The Eiger!


National Geographic Adventure has posted a hot video of a "speed descent" on The Eiger, that has to be seen to be believed. Very cool stuff.

What's a Speed Descent you ask? Good question. How about skiing off the summit with a parachute strapped to your back allowing you to float over large sections of the mountain. Judging from the video, this looks like a great deal of fun, and you have to give the guys points for orginality. While everyone else is finding new ways to get up The Eiger (and every other mountain) these guys are finding new ways to get down it.

Trust me, the video is worth your time! Thanks for sharing this Ryan!

Book Review: The Eiger Obsession


I've been teasing a book review for The Eiger Obession since before I left for Africa. There is something to be said for a 28 hour (One way!) travel time for helping you get caught up on your reading. Here are my thoughts on the book...

The Eiger Obession by John Harlin III is an interesting dichotomy of parts. On the one hand, it's a biography of Harlin's father, John Harlin II, who was an amazing climber in the Alps during the 50's and 60's, and on the other hand it's an auto-biography of Harlin III himself, and his life following his father's death on the Eiger back in 1966. Finally, it's the story of a son, following in his father's footsteps, to silence some demons, and even breakout from a long shadow, and form his own identity.

John Harlin II was pilot for the U.S. Airforce stationed in Europe during the 1950's. He was tall, athletic, and very charismatic. He was also a climber of no small skill, and he loved the Alps. They were practically his own personal playground, and over the years, he put up new routes, and climbed all the major peaks in the range. He became a legend in the European climbing community and even earned the nickname "The Blonde God". There was one route however that Harlin hadn't conquered, but continued to have dreams of completing: The Eiger Direct. Up until that time, there was only one route up The Eiger, the biggest, baddest face in the Alps, and it wandered all over the wall until it reached the top. Harlin wanted to put up a straight route, a more direct route. So, in 1966 he went after that route, with a team of excellent climbers I might add, but in doing so, he lost his life when a frayed rope broke while he was on it. In the end, the team reached the top, and the route was called the "John Harlin Route", but his death had profound consequences on the people who knew him.

The second half of the book follows Harlin's son, John Harlin III, as he grows up and becomes quite a good climber in his own right. However, along the way, he can always feel the shadow of his father over him, as other climbers question his abilities and accomplishments. And of course, always looming over him, is The Eiger itself, which he finally faces for an upcoming IMAX film entitled The Alps. Upon conquering The Eiger, Harlin III at last puts some of those demons to rest.

The book itself is very well written and does a good job of mixing the biographical and autobiographical elements. Harlin III, who is no stranger to writing and editing, paces the book nicely, and you'll find that it's quick and easy to read, while still offering all the details and information necessary to tell the story it needs to. He also does a fine job of walking the fine line of being an adoring son, who remembers his father in one light, while still examining the way others saw him as well. Harlin II was known to exaggerate the truth from time to time, and other climbers found him to be a bit of prima donna or poser on the mountain, and yet the author acknowledges those elements in his father, without losing his own boyish admiration that many of us can relate to with our own fathers.

The book is also a nice history of The Eiger itself. Harlin gives us plenty of background on the mountain that became the stage for both his father, and in due time, himself. It's probably the most famous face in the Alps, and while it's been climbed numerous times, it still remains iconic to this day.

In the end, The Eiger Obession is a very satisfying read. It's a well told story of two men, father and son, who climbed for different reasons, but shared much more than just a name. I enjoyed the book all the way through, and would highly recommend it to climbers and non-climbers alike. The story is compelling and told in such a way that anyone can enjoy it. It should also make a great companion to The Alps when it's released to IMAX theaters soon. The book would also make a great Father's Day gift in a few months as well, and will make a fine addition to anyone's personal climbing library.

I've got another book finished that I'll be reviewing soon as well. Something of a completely different nature, but just as enjoyable for very different reasons.