Kilree Monastic Site, County Kilkenny

The high cross of Kilree with the round tower and churchyard in the background.

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On a fine bright day in early December we decided to take a drive to visit an old favourite, Kells Priory in County Kilkenny. This massive walled fortress of a medieval monastery never fails to impress, no matter how many times I visit. After having a good walk around the site for a couple of hours, we followed the signposted up to Kilree Monastic Site, located just up the road (approximately 2km) from the Priory.

Though much smaller and less immediately visually imposing than Kells Priory, we found Kilree to be a really atmospheric and rewarding site to visit. Visiting the two sites in one day really does serve as a really fine contrast between the Irish monasteries of the early medieval period, and those larger, more formal and orderly establishments of the continental orders that came centuries later. 

Kilree from the road

To get to Kilree, simply follow the signpost up from Kells Priory, it is located only a short drive away. There isn’t much in the way of parking, so just pull your car off the road and cross the field to the churchyard (taking careful note of the beware of bull sign!) Entering the site through the small gate, an atmospheric hush falls over you as the trees that surround the graveyard block the wind. I believe that the churchyard is still used as a burial place, though most of the graves I saw dated to the 19th century. 

The graveyard

Kilree is said to have been founded by St. Brigid, though no remains dating from her time during the 6th century has been discovered at the site. One of the first historical features you encounter is the remains of a stone church. This church has architectural features known as antae, which are projections of the side walls past the exterior end walls, a typically pre-romanesque architectural style. The church was modified and expanded in later medieval periods and inside you can see some tombs of possibly late-medieval date.

The remains of the medieval church

The well-preserved round tower

The fine round tower stands on the boundary wall of the old churchyard. Apart from it missing its original conical roof, the round tower is in good condition. The tower stands nearly 27 metres (88 feet) tall, and is around 5m (16 feet) in diameter. The tower is constructed from irregularly coursed limestone, and has sandstone dressing around the doorway, that faces the door of the early medieval part of the church, a typical orientation of many round towers. What makes Kilree almost unique, is that the tower stands on a rectangular stone pad-foundation, only replicated on one other round tower – that of Aghaviller located nearby to the south-east. This possibly reflects that the same architect was involved in the construction of both towers, perhaps giving insights into the skilled craftsmen like architects, stonemasons, millwrights and engineers, who travelled around Ireland in the early medieval period, helping to establish the flourishing monasteries that sprang up around the country. 

Just near the round tower you’ll see a small stile that you can cross to leave the churchyard to access the field where the high cross stands. The delicate geometric design of the cross is similar to other examples in the western part of the ancient kingdom of Ossory, particularly those of Ahenny located nearby to the south. The fine geometric design might be following the tradition of decorative metalwork of the eighth century, with the large ‘stud’ like features representing the enamel studs on the decorative metalwork. The cross at Kilree, like those of Ahenny, might be some of the earliest stone high crosses in Ireland. 

Kilree really is a rewarding place to visit, with a distinct peaceful atmosphere. For archaeology & history nuts like me, a day out at Kells Priory and Kilree is hard to beat! 

Some Sources and Recommended Reading:

Bhreathnach, E. (2014) Ireland in the medieval world, AD400–1000: Landscape, Kingship and Religion. (Four Courts Press, Dublin)

Edwards, N. 2002. The Archaeology of Early Medieval Ireland. (Routledge, London)

Hamlin, A. and Hughes, K. 1997. The Modern Traveller to the Early Irish Church. (Four Courts Press, Dublin)

Lalor, B. 1999. The Irish Round Tower. (Betaprint, Dublin)

Ó Carragáin, T. 2010. Churches in Early Medieval Ireland. (Yale, Singapore).

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All photographs © Neil Jackman /abartaheritage.ie