Showing posts with label Lhotse. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lhotse. Show all posts

Himalaya Fall 2013: A Few Expeditions Still In The Field

Heavy snow, generally poor weather and a waning climbing season in the Himalaya have brought an end to most of the expeditions this fall. Most of the big mountains have been abandoned now with the majority of teams now long gone. But there are a few smaller climbs still taking place in Nepal, where not everyone has completed their adventures just yet.

Yesterday I posted an update from Chad Kellogg and David Gottlieb who are attempting to make the first ascent of Lunag-Ri, the tallest unclimbed peak in Nepal. If all goes as planned, they'll launch their bid later this week. It won't be an easy climb however, as they report heavy snow now on the mountain with more than 4 feet (1.2 meters) falling in the past week alone.

Over on Lhotse, the last of the 8000-meter peaks to see action this fall, we're still waiting on word from the Korean team. The last update indicated that they were headed up to Camp 2 on that mountain, but the amount of snow that was on the Western Cwm this season, even before the arrival of Cyclone Phailin, was daunting. There is no word on whether or not they are still attempting to summit or are planning on heading home.

ExWeb has shared a couple of other expeditions that are still ongoing as well. For instance, a team of French climbers arrived in country last week and are en route to Saipal now. Their travel has been delayed more than once due to poor weather, but they should arrive in Base Camp soon. Located in extreme Northwest Nepal, Saipal is a seldom climbed peak with an altitude of 7031 meters (23,067 ft).

Ama Dablam is also seeing some late season action. The popular climbing peak is 6856 meters (22,493 ft) in height and is often seen as a good tune-up for other climbs in the Himalaya. Himex has a team there now and a Pakistani group led by Shaheen Baig is also on the mountain. Aussie climber Chris Jensen Burke is also hoping to wrap up a busy year in the Himalaya with one final climb on Ama Dablam too.

While these few remaining expeditions aren't as big and sexy as some of the attempts on the 8000 meter peaks, they are still solid challenges, especially when you factor in the late season weather. It should be interesting to see how much success these teams find in the next week or so. These smaller mountains don't take nearly as long to climb and I suspect most of these remaining expeditions will wrap up by the first week of November.

Stay tuned for more updates.

Summits Continue on Everest and a Death on Lhotse


MountEverest.net has all the latest news from the mountain where there weather remains very good, and summits continue today.

The Alpine Ascents Team reached the summit this morning and according to their website all the members are down safely. The SummitClimb Team put five climbers on top as well, as did the French Jomolangma team.

We're still waiting more information about the Nepalese woman that the IMG Team rescued yesterday beneath The Balcony, but now we have word of another rescue, this time on the North Side. The Seven Summits Club rescued a fallen Italian Climber, identified only as "Marco", who apparently lay in the snow unconscious for two days outside of camp at 8300m. Turns out, he was still alive, and Abramov's team had to get him down safely, which they did.

The word is that Gavin Bates is lucky to be alive after giving up on his summit attempt and traverse. After having problems with his oxygen mask high up the mountain, he was forced to turn back as pulmonary edema set in. He made it back to Camp 3, where doctors were shocked that he was still standing, let alone came off the mountain. Apparently his lungs were quite full with liquid. Hope you're feeling better soon Gavin.

And finally, sad news to report from Lhotse where Pemba Doma Sherpa, a two time Everest summiter, has fallen to her death following a successful summit bid. There are also unconfirmed reports of two other Sherpas dying as well.

The Sherpas are the backbone of any Himalaya climb, and they always put their heart in soul into helping the teams they are hired to support. When one of their own perishes, especially someone as well known as Pemba Doma, it hits the whole community hard. So while we're keeping all the western climbers who have died, in our thoughts and prayers, lets not forget about the brave Sherpas who make all this possible.

Update: The Adventurist has posted an more information on the death of Pemba Doma. Jason has some contacts in Nepal, and is attempting to get more details at this time. Hopefully we'll know more about the incident, and the condition of the other Sherpas on the climb soon.

Himalaya Fall 2013: Last Attempt On Lhotse, Over On Lunag-Ri

Two of the expeditions that we've been following closely this fall season in the Himalaya have come to an end, closing the season at last. With autumn drawing to a close, and heavy snows falling across the region, there will now be a break in the action while we wait for the winter expeditions to arrive on the scene in late December or early January.

One of the late-season expeditions that has been so intriguing this year as been Chad Kellogg and David Gottlieb's attempt to summit Lunag-Ri, the tallest unclimbed peak in Nepal at 6895 meters (22,621 ft). When last we checked in with the team, they had retreated from their first attempt after a large chunk of ice or rock had struck Chad in the shoulder, causing an injury that would prevent them from continuing upwards. The boys went back back to Base Camp and regrouped for a second attempt, which proved to be just as challenging in hits own way.

It took them about a week to get organized for another attempt and they set off once again along a different route that they hoped would allow them access to the summit. Temperatures were starting to drop and snow remained an obstacle, but Chad and David were optimistic about their chances. They proceeded upward and were making steady progress when Gottlieb realized that he couldn't feel some of his fingers. Removing his glove, he could see that frostbite was starting to set in and further examination showed that six of his fingers were in danger. It was a simple choice at that point. Time to abandon the climb and return home.

The two men descended back to Base Camp and on November 6 they started their trek back to civilization. For now, Lunag-Ri remains unclimbed and a lure to other mountaineers looking to make a first ascent.


Meanwhile, ExWeb is reporting that the Korean team on Lhotse was making a final "fast and light" attempt on that mountain at the end of last week. The team was turned back on their initial summit bid two weeks ago due to heavy snows. They hoped to give it one more go and if successful, they should have summited over the weekend. There is no news yet on whether or not the succeeded, but considering how uncooperative Lhotse has been this fall, it seems unlikely. If news of the teams success comes my way, I'll be sure to share it here.

ExWeb also has follow-up information on the French climbers who were evacuated from Annapurna a few weeks back. We knew at the time that they were suffering from frostbite, but we didn't know the extent of those injuries. Yannick Graziani suffered only minor issues and is now on the mend but Stephane Benoist is facing much worse problems. He has been flown home to France where his injuries are being treated, but it now seems he'll face the amputation of one of his feet and the tips of several fingers. Thankfully the injuries weren't more life threatening but this was still quite a price to pay.

In a sign of things to come, ExWeb also says that teams are now starting to gear up for the winter season, with one team already aiming for an attempt on Nanga Parbat, one of only two 8000 meter peaks that have yet to be climbed during the winter season, the other being K2. It should be interesting to see what lies ahead.

Himalaya Fall 2013: Summit Push On Lhotse Underway

The 2013 fall climbing season in the Himalaya just seems to keep on going, despite the fact we keep wanting to declare it finished. Heavy snow across the region has made it a difficult year, particularly in the latter stages. But a few teams are still plugging away and holding out hope for late season summits.

Perhaps the most surprising expedition that is still on going is the Korean team's attempt to climb Lhotse. ExWeb is reporting today that the squad is still on the mountain and has launched their summit bid at last. The team moved up to Camp 3 today and are expected to go to C4 tomorrow with the push to the top to follow shortly thereafter. The report says that the Korean climbers attempted to shuttle gear to Camp 4 a few days back but were turned away by excessive snow. If that is the case, I would expect the upper slopes to be very difficult, making the way to the summit a real challenge. If all goes according to plan, it looks like they'll make the final push this weekend. Lets hope it is a safe climb up and back down.

ExWeb is also reporting news from several expeditions to smaller mountains in Nepal as well. A French team is attempting the 7031 meter (23,067 ft) Saipal in the western party of the country, while another French squad has wrapped up a new route on Gauri Shankar, a 7314 meter (23,996 ft) peak on the border of Tibet. British climbers Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden were also able to make the first ascent of Kishtwar Kailash a few weeks back. You can read details of their ascent of that 6451 meter (21,164 ft) mountain by clicking here.

Finally, we're all still awaiting word from Chad Kellogg and David Gottlieb on their attempt to make a first ascent of Lunag-Ri. It has been ten days since we received the last dispatch and at that time the boys were prepping for a summit push that was to begin on October 25 and should have taken roughly 4-5 days to complete. Given that they expected quite a bit of snow up near the summit, it is possible they are still working the route or making their descent. Hopefully we'll get news from them soon. At 6895 meters (22,621 ft) it is the tallest unclimbed peak in Nepal. Chad and David aren't the only ones attempting the mountain this fall either. There was another team in BC that was a day or two ahead of them in acclimatization and launching their own summit bid.

That's it for now. Hopefully we'll hear more about these last few expeditions in the next day or two. It seems the season will truly wrap up in the next week or so.

Maxut and Vassily Back In ABC!


MountEverest.net has an update on the Kazakhs who topped out on Everest yesterday. It seems the pair are back in ABC, safe and sound, although they did require a bit of aid from some Sherpa's on the way down.

Word is that they need a "small puff" of oxygen from one bottle and warm drinks, but they finished the descent under their own power and are resting comfortably now in their tent. Good news all around!

In other news, Fausto de Stefani has returned to Lhotse to clear up some unfinished business of his own. Fausto claims to have summitted all 14 8000m peaks, but his climb on Lhotse back in 1997 was called into question. At the time, he was climbing with friend Sergio Martini, and the two believed they had reached the top, but because of an awful blizzard, they were unable to check their position properly. Another climber later claimed to have seen the pair descending before they had reached the summit. Thus, Fausto was never credited with reaching the top on Lhotse. It remains the only 8000m peak he hasn't topped out on. Hopefully he'll soon correct this oversight and join the ranks of the elite. Hey Fausto? What took you so long to come back? Good luck!