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Aghadoe Church and Round Tower just outside Killarney in County Kerry, is certainly in a picturesque setting. Little remains of the early medieval monastery that was founded here by Saint Finian the Leper in the 7th Century. As with most early medieval monastic sites, the majority of the original buildings were probably constructed from timber. However no visible traces of those remain, and we are left with a stone church and the base of a round tower.

The stone church looks to have at least three phases of construction and parts have been extensively reconstructed by the Office of Public Works. The western end may be the oldest. This might be traces of the great church of Achadh Dá Eo, that was completed in 1158 by Amhlaoibh O’Donoghue and dedicated to the Holy Trinity and to Saint Mary. It has a wonderful Romanesque doorway, with an incredibly detailed sculpted arch made from sandstone blocks, this is likely to have been reconstructed some time in the nineteenth century. 

The eastern wall has windows that were probably inserted in the thirteenth century, if you look closely at the windows on the inside of the church you can see a small sculpted decoration (perhaps a flower or a butterfly) and a rather worried looking head. Nearby embedded on top of the southern wall, you can also see a large slab with ogham script that reads BRRUANANN. This could have been a simple grave marker bearing a single name.

You can also see this unusual crucifixion scene that dates from the late 1600s or early 1700s. The interior of the church and the exterior are full of graves, some dating to the eighteenth century but many modern graves can be seen too. 

The unusual crucifixion scene that possibly dates to the late 1600s.

The bullaun stone

There is little remaining of the round tower other than a short stump. It is made of similar sandstone to the church, and also seems to have been partially reconstructed. Presumably in the nineteenth century when the romanesque doorway was reconstructed. You can also find a bullaun stone on the northern side of the church. These small hollowed stones are often associated with early medieval ecclesiastical sites, they may have been rudimentary holy water fonts or perhaps even used as large mortar and pestle type features to grind herbs, cereals or minerals.

Nearby to Aghadoe you can also find the remains of Parkavonear Castle. There isn't much left standing today but this circular tower that is thought to date to the thirteenth century. 

It is another echo of a time shortly after the Norman invasions, when they began to try to protect their conquests. Initially they constructed fortifications of earth and timber, but as they became more established they replaced these with castles of stone.

Aghadoe Church is certainly worth a visit for the incredible views of the surrounding landscape. You can find it on Aghadoe Heights, just two miles NNW of Killarney adjacent to the Aghadoe Heights Hotel.

If you’d like to keep up with daily images and information about Ireland’s fantastic heritage sites please consider following Neil’s company Abarta Audioguides on Facebook, Twitter, Instagram or Google+.

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A view of Ross Castle from Aghadoe Church

I saw that my list of Google Followers have now grown to 500! This list is distinct from my Twitter and Facebook followers and friends, or from my subscribers to my newsletters.

To commemorate this milestone, here's an introduction to the work of Karina Joseph, who is my 500th Google Follower.

Karina Joseph is a freelance photographer working in Mumbai, and from what I've seen of her excellent photographs on Flickr, specializes in commercial photography. She also does street photography, as can be seen in this following photograph.

Photo © Karina Joseph-All Rights Reserved
I will keep an eye on my Google Followers, and whenever possible I will post the work of every 100th follower.

"I lit three candles and stood awhile, to let my eyes accustom themselves to the dim light. There was everything, just as the last Bronze Age man (sic) had left it, three to four thousand years before. A light brownish dust covered all... There beads of stone, bone implements made from Red Deer antlers, and many fragments of much decayed pottery. On little raised recesses in the wall were flat stones, on which reposed the calcinated bones of young children."

These are the words of R.S. Macalister who in 1911 was the first person in thousands of years to enter the Neolithic tombs of Carrowkeel. Unfortunately Macalister and his team did great damage to these wonderful monuments, using dynamite and sledgehammers to enter the tombs rather than a careful excavation.

Each of the peaks of this northern end of the Bricklieve Mountains features passage tombs

Despite this violation, Carrowkeel still remains one of the most spectacular and breathtaking archaeological landscapes in Ireland, and is simply a must-see for anyone with any interest in our prehistoric past. They are situated at the northern end of the Bricklieve Mountains in County Sligo, and cover a number of the peaks that tower over the surrounding landscape. As well as a large number of tombs, at Mullagh Farna, archaeologist Dr Stefan Bergh with Anthony Corns and Robert Shaw of the Irish archaeological research unit The Discovery Programme carried out a high resolution survey of the area using digital photogrammetry and identified 153 hut sites and enclosures that probably indicate the homes of the people who constructed the tombs, a Neolithic village in the shadow of the mountains. If you'd like more information on this site visit the NUI Galway website here.

View from Cairn G with H & K in the background

We visited three of the passage tombs on the 2nd September 2013 and it was a fantastic experience! The tombs first appear as stone cairns, and are constructed from the abundant local carboniferous limestone. They are passage tombs, and were built around 5,000 years ago in the Neolithic period. This was the time of the first farmers in Ireland, the people who began to cut back the dense forests that covered the country to create fields for tillage and pasture. The most famous passage tomb cemetery in Ireland is the Brú na Bóinne (Bend of the Boyne) including the iconic sites of Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth, but Carrowkeel is equally as important, with its fourteen tombs.

When the tombs were ‘investigated’ by Macalister and his team, each of the tombs were assigned a letter. We visited the easiest to access tombs, Cairns G, H and K. Each of the tombs was accessible, though please do take every precaution not to disturb or damage the tombs if you wish to enter.

View out through the lightbox above the entrance of Cairn G

 Cairn G in particular was notable as it has a lightbox above the entrance, similar to that of Newgrange, only Cairn G is aligned with the sunset of the summer solstice. Cairn G is believed to predate Newgrange by more than 700 years, and is more simple with a much smaller passageway leading to the burial chamber. Inside Cairn G, Macalister reported finding deposits of cremated human bone, beads from a necklace and sherds of pottery. I didn’t access the next tomb, Cairn H, as it looked far too tight a squeeze. It appeared to be a narrow undifferentiated passage (meaning it did not open into a burial chamber at the end). The third tomb we visited, Cairn K, was a little easier to enter. A narrow cruciform shaped passageway led to a burial chamber. Inside this Macalister found deposits of cremated human remains under the flagged floor of the recesses in the chamber, and stone beads and pottery. They also discovered a Bronze Age urn, showing that these sites still held power and significance thousands of years after their first construction. 

View along the passageway of Cairn K looking towards the entrance

Carrowkeel has much in common with Seefin in County Wicklow. Both are large stone cairn-type passage tombs that are positioned high above the surrounding landscape with incredible views. Perhaps those who constructed the graves so high above the landscape, wanted to claim ownership of all they could see. That by placing their ancestors far above the low lying lands of the living, the shades of their forebears could watch over them from their tombs.  

Cairn K with its entrance facing out towards the North

You’ll find Carrowkeel around 30km or so from Sligo Town. Aim for Castlebaldwin on the N4 road between Sligo and Boyle, and the tombs are well signposted from there. The road winds considerably upwards, take the well formed tarmac road down to the site. At the end of this road you’ll find a closed gate, simply open the gate (being sure to close and tie it again behind you) and drive up the hill. 

You’ll come to a small area you can leave your car where you will see there is a sign indicating you shouldn’t drive any further. Follow the advice of the sign and park up, walking along the track for around 1 – 2km. You’ll see Cairn G above you to the right, so leave the stony path and follow the rough track upwards through the bog towards it. Do mind your footing as the ground can be treacherous on a bad day. The weather day we visited was mixed but largely dry, even so the wind was really strong when we reached the top, so do take care and wear appropriate footwear.

The burial chamber of Cairn K

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The views over the landscape of County Sligo are just spectacular!

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At Carrowkeel you can really see how the glacier carved out the landscape over 10,000 years ago

December doesn't just mean that the holidays are right around the corner. It also is a time to reflect on the year that has just passed and take stock of events that have transpired. Over the course of the next few weeks, I'm sure we'll see plenty of articles detailing the "best of 2013" or the "top ten" something or other from the past 12 months. Take for example this article from Outside magazine which shares their picks for the ten best adventure films that were released this year, each of which look like they'll be of interest to outdoor enthusiasts.

A number of the films on the list were ones that I've written about here on the Adventure Blog while others are completely new to me. For instance, I covered The Sufferfest, a film about Alex Honnold and Cedar Wright's "worst trip ever" few weeks back, and I've covered The Last Great Climb as it happened and when the trailer hit back in the summer. Most have us have probably at least seen the trailer for Blackfish as well. It was the film that was released this past summer that take a hard look at how captivity impacts the lives of killer whales.

A few of the films are ones that I haven't seen yet. Those include The Crash Reel, which follows snowboarders Shaun White and Kevin Pearce as they prepare for the 2010 Olympics. Just days before the games Pearce suffered an accident in the half pipe, suffering brain damage in the process. I'm also excited to see Maidentrip, which follows Laura Dekker on her attempt to sail solo around the globe a few years back. But perhaps the most intriguing film to me is Keeper of the Mountains, which is a movie about Miss Elizabeth Hawley, the Grand Dame of the Himalaya, and the keeper of all the records pertaining to climbs that take place in the big mountains. Catch the trailer for that film below.

If you're looking for some great adventure films to watch in the days ahead, Outside's list is a perfect place to get some ideas on where to start.

I've just announced my first photo~expedition™ of 2011, and it'll be once again in Gujarat, but much different in context and objectives than the one I led earlier this year. As I always do, its details are shared to those who subscribe to my newsletter, and after a week or so, I make them public.

It will involve photographing tribal life in western Gujarat, the hijras at the famed Bahucharji temple, document the syncretism between Sufi Islam and Hinduism in various shrines and sacred sites in Gujarat's southern peninsula, and the African Indian Mystics of Gujarat, with their distinctive music and rituals.

This photo~expedition™ is limited to a maximum of 5 photographers, and its details have now been sent to my newsletter recipients.

It promises to be another exciting experience especially as it involves so many off-the-beaten-path documentary opportunities...Sufi and Hindu syncretism, eunuchs, the Indian Sufi mystics, and Gujarat's tribals! Not the faint of heart or for first-timers to India, it's a visual and intellectual itinerary which will offer immense opportunities to self-starters interested in documenting the complexities of conflicting traditions and ways of life in one of the most interesting countries of the world.

Counterintuitively, Bangkok hasn't always been the best place in the world to go for a high quality massage. Well, Bangkok, of course, is infamous for one type of "massage"-- the kind you get at joints like Lolita's and the Kangaroo Club in Pat Pong, the Johnson-waxing or pole-smoking (with or without icecubes), which inebriated German and Australian tourists seem to prefer. Me... I go for the old fashioned, legitimate, therapeutic massage where "happy ending" means limber muscles and a relaxed frame. In Bangkok that kind of massage hasn't been all that easy to find, at least not really great ones. Well, I have always liked the omnipresent foot massages. The bending and twisting stressed out ones you get at the wats... eh... not so much. And up at the traditional Thai massage school in Chiang Mai... you can definately get a first class legit massage there. And one year we even spent a week at a posh resort in Hua Hin called Chiva-Som and they had decent enough massages (in an uptight, creepy, over-priced spa atmosphere). But here in Bangkok, I always found the massage scene kind of seedy and... well, not serious or professional.

This year I came across a sparkling clean and new massage house on Silom Road just a few blocks down from Charoen Krung, Silom Bodyworks. I've had half a dozen massages there (so far) and I found the masseuses uniformly serious, knowledgeable and effective. The place features "modern Thai massage," especially the full body massage and the back, head and shoulders massage. No twisting you into a pretzel either. There are more exotic treatments as well, from ayurvedic massages, jurlique facials, crystal treatments, and Swedish aroma therapy to a "tropical fruit body treatment." I stuck with the more conventional hour and a half long full body and back, head and shoulders when ever I got the opportunity.

While I was traipsing around the Irawaddy Delta southwest of Yangon in Myanmar last week, the shock absorberless cars and the severely pot-holed roads conspired against my lower back. By the time I got back to Bangkok I was a (barely) walking disaster. A well-trained and intuitive masseuse at Silom Bodyworks had me all fixed up in just 2 sessions.

Have you ever wondered what a flight across the Antarctic would be like? If you answered yes, you'll want to check out the video below, which was shot by the Scott Expedition which is currently skiing to the South Pole and back. The video is a bit over four minutes in length and  manages to mix in some good information about the logistics of Antarctic travel with some excellent video footage of the frozen continent as well. This will give you a good idea of what it is like for the teams who are heading out for the start of the expeditions soon.

Guinea, not Jackson Heights

I'm in NYC this week and judging by the taxis, I really am in one of the most cosmopolitan, international city in the world. The guy who drove me from JFK to my hotel on the Upper West Side came here from Kandahar, Afghanistan. He came as an illegal immigrant, spent 3 months in jail and eventually was granted political asylum. Each of his two younger brothers came and remained here the same way. His wife and elderly parents are in Qetta in Pakistan and he's hoping to bring them here too. He works 7 days a week and sends a lot of his earnings to Qetta. The two younger brothers work in a fried chicken restaurant. They live in Queens. His American odyssey seems very much the same as the story of immigrants I've heard all my life.

We drove through Queens to the 59th Street Bridge through whole neighborhoods of Muslim immigrants, from Pakistan, Nigeria, Bangladesh, India... some from Afghanistan, Egypt and other countries.

Last night my friends Charlie and Sharon got married and I dressed up in a Zegna suit and a Fray shirt, reminiscent of my old corporate days-- not something I thought would be the right dress for the subway. I waited for one of those van-looking yellow cabs. The driver, Mohammed, was also a refugee who sought and was granted political asylum. He was the first taxi driver-- or anyone else-- I had ever met from the small West African country of Guinea. When I was a child Guinea was granted independence from France and I remember the fiery president, Sekou Touré coming to the UN and pushing a socialist agenda. He was demonized by the American media. When he died in 1984, General Lansana Conté staged a coup and became president and still is. He's more pro-American and a pretty brutal, if ineffective, dictator. In 1998, Mohammed, my driver, was elected to the city council in Fria, just north of the capital, Conakry. Unfortunately for him, his party, the UPR, won the national elections and Conté decided to kill lots of them and... change the results. Mohammed was one of the lucky ones and he escaped to the U.S.

Guinea is a desperately poor country and would like to encourage a tourist industry. Their propaganda refers to the country as the Switzerland of Africa, which is clearly absurd, although it does have mountains. The tourism industry has potential and promise but they only get about 100,000 tourists a year (few Americans). You can fly there from Paris. There aren't many hotels, though the best one in the country is a Meridien with 96 rooms and there is also a Novotel.

There isn't any major climbing news to report from the Himalaya today as most of the teams have either already left for home or are in a holding pattern while inclement weather continues to make things difficult. The cyclone that made landfall last weekend is still dumping snow and rain on the region and that is causing all kind of problem. But the biggest news comes from Everest, where there are four fatalities reported by a team that was camping and trekking in a restricted area and were struck by an avalanche yesterday.

Outside Online is sharing what few details of the situation are actually known about the accident. It seems that a group of ten trekkers ignored warning and defied regulations by moving into an off-limits area of Everest on the North Side of the mountain. They were there on Sunday when a large avalanche struck their campsite, killing three Tibetan guides and injuring a 60-year old from Australia. The Australian was rescued but later passed away from a combination of those injuries and altitude sickness.  Outside also reports that the same avalanche has left another 154 people stranded in the area.

Meanwhile, I'm also hearing reports that a number of trekkers and guides are out of contact on the South Side of the mountain as well. Reports from Nepal indicate that as many as 20 people are missing at the moment as the bad weather continues to dominate the region. Most of those are probably safe and sound in a tea house somewhere, but lets keep our fingers crossed for them none the less.

If the bad weather continues for much longer, I'm sure we'll see the final mountaineering teams pack it in for the year. Conditions have already been reportedly poor on a number of the big mountains, such as Lhotse where climbers haven't even been able to establish Camp 2 yet this fall. Heavy snows are only going to make things more unstable and time is starting to run short. I'll continue to keep an eye on the situation there and post updates as the news warrants it.

Boyle Abbey is the most important Cistercian Abbey in the west of Ireland, and dates from 12/13th Century. Boyle is the 'daughter house' of Mellifont Abbey, the first Cistercian Abbey to be founded in Ireland. The Cistercian Order was founded by St. Bernard of Clairvaux in Burgundy, Central France in 1098. St. Bernard believed that the other monastic orders had become dissolute and undisciplined, and he founded the Cistercians as an austere and hard-working order who focused on a life of prayer. 

The cloister area

The first monks arrived at Boyle in 1161, the powerful Lords of Moylurg, the Mac Diarmata (the MacDermotts) granted the lands to the Cistercians and became patrons of the Abbey.

In the nave looking towards the choir

Like all other Cistercian monasteries, Boyle Abbey was centred around a rectangular shaped cloister. The cloister had a covered walkway running around it known as a cloister arcade, but unfortunately nothing remains today of this feature as it was thought to have been destroyed in the Abbey's later history. A large cruciform shaped church was constructed on the northern side of the cloisters. The church is designed in typical Burgundian style with a pointed barrel vault and choir arch. An interesting feature of the church can be seen in the Nave, where you can see distinct differences in the design of the arches on the north side (pointed) and the south side (rounded), also by looking at the capitals on top of the columns that form the arches you can see some wonderful examples of medieval sculpture. These sculptures and designs are thought to have been the work of the Ballintubber Master, who copied some of the late-Romanesque design and decorated the columns with floral motifs, birds, beasts, and human figures. The picture below is one of my favourite depictions from Boyle Abbey, showing a poor dog who appears to be having a bad day of it. He is being bitten on his nose and his backside simultaneously by two other dogs. The poor fella has his tongue lolling out with the sheer bother of it all. 

Boyle Abbey was raided by the Norman Lord William de Burgh in 1202. It was recorded that he spent three days thoroughly ransacking the Abbey and its lands. The Annals of Loch Cé record that 'no structure in the monastery was left without breaking and burning...no part of the buildings of the entire monastery was allowed to the monks and brothers'.  
It was raided again in 1235 when Richard de Burgh launched his invasion of Connacht, and by the fifteenth century the importance of Boyle Abbey had began to wane.

The Abbey was one of the last to be dissolved during the Dissolution of the Monasteries under King Henry VIII, it survived the reformation for over forty years until 1584 when the last abbot of Boyle, Glaisne O'Culleanain was executed in Dublin for refusing to renounce his loyalty to Rome. 

Boyle Abbey was then leased to William Usher in 1589, and shortly afterwards it was used as a military barracks by Elizabethan soldiers. Much alterations and damage to the abbey happened at this time, especially to the cloister area where the arcade was demolished. In 1603 it was given to Sir John King and it remained in his family until 1892. It continued to be used as a barracks until the end of the eighteenth century. But despite its long occupation as a military base, the Abbey is still a wonderful example of a Cistercian monastery and is well worth a visit.

The site couldn't be easier to find, simply head to Boyle in County Roscommon and the Abbey is well signposted. It is now under the auspices of the Office of Public Works, and you can enjoy an excellent guided tour that takes you through the fafascinating history of the Abbey. Entry costs €3 per adult, €2 per senior citizen (over 60 years), €1 for a child/student and a family ticket costs €8. For more information and opening times see http://www.heritageireland.ie/en/West/BoyleAbbey/ 

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All photographs © Neil Jackman / abartaaudioguides.com 

The high cross of Kilree with the round tower and churchyard in the background.

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On a fine bright day in early December we decided to take a drive to visit an old favourite, Kells Priory in County Kilkenny. This massive walled fortress of a medieval monastery never fails to impress, no matter how many times I visit. After having a good walk around the site for a couple of hours, we followed the signposted up to Kilree Monastic Site, located just up the road (approximately 2km) from the Priory.

Though much smaller and less immediately visually imposing than Kells Priory, we found Kilree to be a really atmospheric and rewarding site to visit. Visiting the two sites in one day really does serve as a really fine contrast between the Irish monasteries of the early medieval period, and those larger, more formal and orderly establishments of the continental orders that came centuries later. 

Kilree from the road

To get to Kilree, simply follow the signpost up from Kells Priory, it is located only a short drive away. There isn’t much in the way of parking, so just pull your car off the road and cross the field to the churchyard (taking careful note of the beware of bull sign!) Entering the site through the small gate, an atmospheric hush falls over you as the trees that surround the graveyard block the wind. I believe that the churchyard is still used as a burial place, though most of the graves I saw dated to the 19th century. 

The graveyard

Kilree is said to have been founded by St. Brigid, though no remains dating from her time during the 6th century has been discovered at the site. One of the first historical features you encounter is the remains of a stone church. This church has architectural features known as antae, which are projections of the side walls past the exterior end walls, a typically pre-romanesque architectural style. The church was modified and expanded in later medieval periods and inside you can see some tombs of possibly late-medieval date.

The remains of the medieval church

The well-preserved round tower

The fine round tower stands on the boundary wall of the old churchyard. Apart from it missing its original conical roof, the round tower is in good condition. The tower stands nearly 27 metres (88 feet) tall, and is around 5m (16 feet) in diameter. The tower is constructed from irregularly coursed limestone, and has sandstone dressing around the doorway, that faces the door of the early medieval part of the church, a typical orientation of many round towers. What makes Kilree almost unique, is that the tower stands on a rectangular stone pad-foundation, only replicated on one other round tower – that of Aghaviller located nearby to the south-east. This possibly reflects that the same architect was involved in the construction of both towers, perhaps giving insights into the skilled craftsmen like architects, stonemasons, millwrights and engineers, who travelled around Ireland in the early medieval period, helping to establish the flourishing monasteries that sprang up around the country. 

Just near the round tower you’ll see a small stile that you can cross to leave the churchyard to access the field where the high cross stands. The delicate geometric design of the cross is similar to other examples in the western part of the ancient kingdom of Ossory, particularly those of Ahenny located nearby to the south. The fine geometric design might be following the tradition of decorative metalwork of the eighth century, with the large ‘stud’ like features representing the enamel studs on the decorative metalwork. The cross at Kilree, like those of Ahenny, might be some of the earliest stone high crosses in Ireland. 

Kilree really is a rewarding place to visit, with a distinct peaceful atmosphere. For archaeology & history nuts like me, a day out at Kells Priory and Kilree is hard to beat! 

Some Sources and Recommended Reading:

Bhreathnach, E. (2014) Ireland in the medieval world, AD400–1000: Landscape, Kingship and Religion. (Four Courts Press, Dublin)

Edwards, N. 2002. The Archaeology of Early Medieval Ireland. (Routledge, London)

Hamlin, A. and Hughes, K. 1997. The Modern Traveller to the Early Irish Church. (Four Courts Press, Dublin)

Lalor, B. 1999. The Irish Round Tower. (Betaprint, Dublin)

Ó Carragáin, T. 2010. Churches in Early Medieval Ireland. (Yale, Singapore).

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All photographs © Neil Jackman /abartaheritage.ie

MountEverest.net has posted an update on Annapuran where teams having been moving up the last few days to get into a position to make their summit push.

Yesterday thre were ten climbers on the mountain, all working together to go for the top, but the spent much of the day climbing around a dangerous serac that hung over the route. When they got past that section and looked up, they saw that the path ahead was quite exposed and offered more dangerous climbing. At that point, six of the climber elected to call it a day and retreat down the mountain, discretion being the better part of valor. However, Andrew Lock, Ivan Vallejo, Serguey Bogomolov and Fernando Gonzalez Rubio have all decided that the rewards outweigh the risk, and they will cointinue up to the summit with the intent of topping out sometime tomorrow.

It should be noted that Annapurna is notorious for it's dangerous climbing near the summit. The mountain is prone to avalanches and giant seracs collapsing. Lets all keep our fingers crossed for these four as they go up. Hopefully everyone will climb safe and make it back in one piece.