BYE-BYE PARAGUAY-- RUTA 1 IS WAY DIFFERENT FROM RUTA 2


A few days ago I was marvelling at the squalor and backwardness of the road from Iguazu/Ciudad del Este to Asunción. It reminded me of India-- a jumble of shanties up against an ill-maintained highway with sorry looking people and their animals wandering around randomly and with garbage and filth everywhere. That was Ruta 2. There's another way into Paraguay: Ruta 1, from Posadas, Argentina, another port of the mighty Paraná River. I took a bus from Asunción to Encarnacion, the Paraguayan city across from Posadas. Once the bus had left behind the slums that ring Asunción-- I was just reading that even in the U.S. there are more people living in poverty in the suburbs than in the cities and the slums of Paris and most European cities are well away from the centers and this seems to be the case in this part of Latin America too-- Paraguay took on a decidedly different look. The communities seem well looked-after, even prosperous. The tropical savannah mixed with jungle gave way to rich grasslands and the hodgepodge habitations along Ruta 2 were replaced by well-planned little towns along Ruta 1.


The people looked better. And so did their animals! It smelled better too and I didn't see any garbage strewn along the road in the whole 5 hour trip. It was like night and day. And Encarnacion also has the air of a propserous and decent little port/border town, rather than the threatening bandit refuge Ciudad Del Este appeared to be. (It's also filled with Arabs, more so than any other town in the area, and I hear the FBI has been there in force looking into "terrorist" connections.)

I took a city bus from Encarnacion to Posadas. I paid 2 pesos (.65) and the short trip included a stop at Paraguayan customs on one side of the Paraná bridge and at Argentine customs on the other side. It was smooth and relaxed and no one asked for an exit fee, although I guess that's just at the airports. Nor did the Argentines make me fill out all the pesky paperwork you have to fill in when you enter by air.

Posadas is the capital of Missiones Province. I think there are a 250-300,000 people in the city. After Paraguay, it feels like I'm back in the 21st Century. It's 100 degrees though. And humid. I'm not a huge fan of this kind of weather but there's something I like even less-- freezing airconditioning which always strikes me as supremely unhealthy. The buses in tropical places are bonechillingly cold and dry-- and filled with sick people sneezing and coughing. No one ever told anyone to cover their mouths. (This especially bothers me at buffets.)

I'm staying in Posadas' only 4-star hotel, Julio Cèsar. It costs $35/night-- no corporate discount-- and the gap between 5 stars and 4 stars is considerably greater than the gap between 4 stars and 3 stars. But the sheets are crisp and clean and there is a ceiling fan (as well as the airconditioning I would never use). It's a decent enough place and, in fact, the swimming pool looks a lot better than the one of the roof of the Sheraton in Asunción (which was so filthy that it was unimaginable that anyone would ever use it). Breakfast buffet is always included in the hotels and the one today was more modest than the ones in the 5 stars, but there was fruit, which is all I eat anyway. I was a little put off when some slovenly young woman with her 7 or 8 year old on her hip walked up to the buffet, the child coughing deeply and the woman sneezing heartily right into the basket of bread.

Last night I made a deal with Roberto, a Swiss-born Argentine, to get me to Iberá in a 4 wheel drive and pick me up in a few days and drive me back. Roberto is a personable dude who speaks great colloquial English-- "American films," he told me-- and has a travel agency catering to tourists who want to make the circuit of ancient Jesuit monasteries in this area and who want to get to Iberá (to which there are no paved roads or public transportation). I expect to be away from computer access for a few days but I'll write about Iberá when I get back to Posadas next week.

In case you ever wind up in Posadas, il Diletto is the best restaurant in town. The mixed salad was totally killer and HUGE (and only $3) and I also had some baked river fish (surubí) with potatoes and a whole lot of melted cheese. I'm looking forward to another one of those salads when I get back here next week.

Mike Curiak Revisited


Remember Mike Curiak? He was the guy that was going to peddle the entire length of the Iditarod Trail, all 1100 miles of it, unsupported, with just his bike and a specially designed trailer to carry his gear. He was first interviewed by The Gear Junkie who has tracked him down for a follow-up report.

It seems not all went well for Mike once he got out on the trail. He encountered some nasty temperatures and winds, as you might expect in Winter on the Iditarod Trail. At times the temps dipped belowe -30 degrees F and the winds blew at speeds in excess of 70 mph. The combination of the two crated 80 below windchill factors. (Didn't I already say "Brrrr!" once today?!?) In the end, it was too much for him to endure, and after 200 miles on the trail, he gave up on his quest.

In the follow-up interview, Curiak says that his trailer preformed great, but that he plans to shave some weight off of it this Summer, and adding some features that'll make it more "user friendly". It sounds like Mike isn't done with his adentures yet, so we'll have to stay tuned to see how things unfold.

Gan Yakitori Charcoal Grill at the Star Vista

Negima

I wasn't expecting much from this place (1 Vista Exchange Green #02-20, 6694-0660), in part because they appeared to be related to those Itacho folks from HK. Nonetheless, the idea of coming here must have gotten stuck in my head when I noticed them earlier in the day, as I kept thinking about yakitori all afternoon.

It turned out better than I had expected, with them even featuring cuts like bonjiri. Still, the cooking was a bit uneven. And when it comes to quality, nothing so far has beaten Shirokane Tori-Tama for me (or even cheaper alternatives Nanbantei and Aburiyatei). But I had a better impression of this place than I did of Sumire.

Lara Kellogg Dies on Mt. Wake

Famed climber Lara Kellogg fell to her death in a climbing accident last week on Mt. Wake, in Denali National Park, Alaska. According to this article posted on MountainZone.com, Kellogg was climbing with mountaineer Jed Brown at the time of the accident.

Lara was married to Chad Kellogg, who was climbing in the Sichuan province of China at the time of the accident. Out of respect to her husband and family, her name was not released until Chad could be contacted and told the news. Lara and Chad are well known in climbing circles having worked as guides and having climbed all over the World.

Jed Brown posted his thoughts on Lara and their climb with a bit of an explanation about what events lead up to them being on the mountain and wht happened while they were there. And a Remembering Lara Kellog Blog has been created to allow friends and family to post their memories and thoughts on Lara.

My thoughts and condolences are with Chad and her family at this time.

Monaincha Abbey, County Tipperary

Saint Elair was said to have founded a small monastic site at Monaincha on a small island surrounded by a lake in the seventh century, but most of the visible remains on the site date to the Augustinians who established a small monastery here dedicated to Saint Mary in the twelfth to fifteenth centuries.
The name Monaincha comes from Mainistir Inse na mBeo meaning The Monastery of the Island of the Living, originally the monastery was on a small island surrounded by water, but agricultural drainage works in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries drained the lake and left the monastery perched conspicuously on top of a mound in a low boggy field.

The beautifully decorated Romanesque doorway
The strange powers of the island were recorded by the twelfth century Norman clergyman and chronicler Gerald of Wales. He discusses the island on which the monastery stands in this excerpt, Monaincha is the smaller island he describes, I’m not sure where the larger island is.

There is a lake in the north of Munster which contains two islands, one rather large and the other rather small. The larger has a church venerated from the earliest times. The smaller [Monaincha] has a chapel cared for most devotedly by a few celibates called ‘heaven-worshippers’.
No woman or animal of the female sex could ever enter the larger island without dying immediately. This has been proved many times by instances of dogs and cats and other animals of the female sex. When brought there to make a trial, they immediately died.
A remarkable thing about the birds there is that, while the males settle on bushes everywhere throughout the island, the females fly over and leave their mates there and, as if they were fully conscious of its peculiar power, avoid the island like a plague.
In the smaller island [Monaincha] no one has ever died or could die a natural death. Accordingly it is called the Island of the Living. Nevertheless the inhabitants sometimes suffer mortal sicknesses and endure the agony almost to their last gasp.
When there is no hope left; when they feel that they have not a spark of life left; when as the strength decreases they are eventually so distressed that they prefer to die in death than drag out a life of death, they get themselves finally transported in a boat to the larger island, and, as soon as they touch ground there, they give up the ghost
’.

(From The History and Topography of Ireland by Gerald of Wales, translated by John J.O’Meara and published by Penguin Books, 1982)

The high cross at Monaincha is a composite of two different crosses. The base appears to be decorated but it is very weathered and difficult to make out, is said to date to around the 9th century, the long thin shaft with a depiction of Christ at the apex is later, dating to the 12th century.

Some of the wonderful detailed decoration on the chancel arch
The church has a really beautifully decorated Romanesque-style doorway resplendent with designs of chevrons, zigzags and foliage carved into the sandstone. The church itself is quite a simple nave and chancel church, with the chancel arch again in the Romanesque style. However evidence of the later activity on site can be seen in the architecture of some of the windows that appear to be later insertions. A small addition to the church has been tacked on in probably around the fifteenth century, it consists of vaulted chamber that may have been a sacristy and a set of steps leading to an upper chamber little of which survives today. The construction of this addition seems a bit rougher than the well constructed original parts of the church.
The vaulted chamber, perhaps originally a sacristy?
I do recommend a visit to Monaincha, especially as you can team it up with a visit to the heritage town of Roscrea, with its impressive castle, Damer House, friary and round tower. To find Monaincha from Roscrea drive north east along the old Dublin Road till you come to a roundabout, then take the exit for Monaincha, the site is signposted Monaincha Church. Monaincha is along a very narrow bumpy track, unless you are in a 4x4 driving along it even in good weather is a bit of a hair raising experience and there is very little room to turn at the end of the track. I’d recommend leaving the car safely pulled in before the track, and walk the 400m or so down to the site. The site is located in a field full of livestock (pretty lively bullocks when we visited on 1st July 2013) so be sure to wear adequate footwear and please close any gates behind you.
A view from the chancel through to the nave of the church
I really hope you enjoy this blog. Please do check out our map page to see if we’ve covered any sites in your area. If you’d like to keep up with daily posts about Ireland’s amazing heritage sites then you can follow us on Facebook, Twitter and Google+. We’d love to hear from you if you have any suggestions for sites to visit or any feedback about my blog.

I also provide downloadable audioguides to Irish heritage sites through my company Abarta Audioguides. Many of these are available absolutely free to download and are packed with original music and sound effects, they are a fun way of discovering the story of Ireland through its places visit www.abartaaudioguides.com to discover the sites we have covered. Why not try a free one like The Rock of Dunamase, Kells Heritage Town or the M6 A Route Through Time?

All photographs © Neil Jackman / abartaaudioguides.com

88 Lines About 44... Tourist Destinations

The world's new culinary capital?

Tomorrow's NY Times will publish an interactive feature called The 44 Places To Go In 2009. You can vote on each and you can order them by filters such as "luxury," "foodie," "culture," "party," "eco," etc. I've been to 23 of their recommendations, from Reykavik, Buffalo and Washington, DC to Dakar, India, Phuket and Marrakesh. They call Marrakesh, which I've visited a dozen times since 1969, "the culinary destination of the year." I like Moroccan food-- ate at Chameau on Fairfax last night and rejoiced when I stumbled upon La Rose des Sables, Bamako's only Moroccan restaurant, a few weeks ago. And in 2006 I had even posted a story here called Eating in Marrakesh. But I never thought I'd see this:

As the fascination with Moroccan cuisine has taken off-- both in the United States and around the globe-- epicures and chowhounds are flocking to the ancient ochre-hued city of Marrakech. Foreign-led food tours are sprouting. Homegrown cooking classes are multiplying. And high-end restaurants run by European hotshots are opening alongside the city's nonpareil street food and old, homestyle establishments.


Wow! Quite a leap from the communal tables of the Djemaa el Fna! But if you think that's odd, the Time's top destination for "culture" is Doha, Qatar. They contrast it with Dubai, the Las Vegas of the Middle East, and point to the just opened Museum of Islamic Art, I.M. Pei's "ziggurat-like structure of white stone... far off the art-world grid, in a corner of a globe known more for its religious fundamentalism than its embrace of cutting-edge art." Doha also has a "raft" of new contemporary art galleries in the historic souk, a cobbled together national symphony orchestra, and-- coming soon-- their own Tribeca Film Festival. All brought to you by the emir, Sheikh Hamad bin Khalifa al-Thani, and his 26-year-old daughter, Sheikha al Mayassa (the lucky purchaser of $160 million worth of Mark Rothko, Francis Bacon and Damien Hirst at a recent Sotheby's auction; we have the same taste!) Still... the #1 cultural destination in the world? Is Qatar a big Times advertiser?

Party central is Florianópolis, Brazil, and it sounds like the kind of place to avoid at all costs. Other party towns include Berlin (well... duh!), the Aegean Sea, Cuba and... Kazakhstan.

On most Friday nights in Almaty, the Uzbek-themed night spot known as the Car Wash-- an ornately decorated rooftop restaurant with enviable mountain views-- is packed with well-heeled Kazakhs smoking water pipes, drinking, dancing and eating extravagantly. Sandwiched between a residential district scheduled for rapid development and Almaty’s business district, the Car Wash is not the only center of hyperactive nocturnal activity.

Infused with newly flowing oil money, Kazakhstan’s largest city is flush with nightclubs and exotic restaurants. The city’s main boulevards are lined with English-language signs; boutiques sell everything from Armani to gem-encrusted Vertu cellphones, and cafes serve the latest in overpriced coffee concoctions.

Sacha Baron Cohen’s comic Borat character may have imprinted in the minds of many people a sense of ridiculousness about Kazakhstan, but there is little that is ridiculous about this sprawling business hub. Half a dozen luxury hotels are planned or under construction, including an ambitious JW Marriott Hotel opening next summer. The country’s flagship carrier, Air Astana, has added international flights to cities like Hanover, Germany; Dubai; and Bangkok. Wide-bodied Airbus and Boeing jets have joined its fleet.

In short, Almaty is no longer a hardship outpost for the diplomats and the oil industry executives who still dominate the city’s visitor logs.


Still... sounds like quite a stretch to call this a party destination-- even more than calling Doha a world cultural capital. Could be I'm so jaded about Kazakhstan because I just finished reading Ken Silverstein's brilliant new book, Turkmeniscam about the evils of Inside-the-Beltway lobbying, to which that monstrous and grotesque country is no stranger.

And although Kazakhstan ranks up there in this category too, the Times' top destination for luxury is Phuket, an island off the west coast of Thailand. I haven't been there since the 2004 tsunami wiped out the villa I used to rent on the beach, but the Times says Phuket is back-- and better than ever. And the top destination for the frugal traveler? Vegas, the Times apparently mixing up the concepts "frugal" and "cheap."

Since I've just returned from a brief stay in Dakar, I decided to see how my experience jibed with the Times' write-up. I liked Dakar primarily because it was an easy way to acclimate myself to Africa and get ready for the real thing: Mali. I had a great time because of the people I met there and the music scene. Dakar I found pretty nice but not amazing; Roland said it was a waste of time. The Times touts Gorée Island, which is pleasant enough but... nothing to write home about. They also point to the music scene, which I also loved, although I found it in second place behind Mali's.

They may not be Billboard chart-toppers, but Senegalese acts like the rollicking Orchestra Baobab, the soulful pop vocalist Baaba Maal and the poetic lyricist and harmonica virtuoso Ismael Lo-- to say nothing of the international star Youssou N'Dour-- have helped turn the colorful French-speaking city of Dakar into a world-music hotbed.


Their overall #1 destination for 2009? Beirut. OK. And the place on their list I'm thinking of visiting this year? Madagascar, "nature's laboratory," (at #38).

TAKIN' TRIPS


Upper class Brits in the 18th and 19th century used to round out their education with The Grand Tour, a way of learning about the culture of the rest of the world that usually lasted for at least a year and sometimes far longer. People who couldn't quite afford that, used to run away to sea. When I was 15 I hitchhiked from NYC to L.A. and tried stowing away on a ship to get to Tonga. It didn't quite work out for me but at least I discovered drugs and was soon taking LSD trips which were an acceptable substitute for international travel-- for a time. Travel allowed me to break free of all the definitions that bound me up to the dull conformity that endeavored to tell me who I was and what I could and couldn't do. I mean a 2 year trip through Turkey, Iran, Afghanistan, Pakistan, India, Sri Lanka and Nepal can't help but change one's outlook pretty fundamentally; it was far more edifying than the public education system which has little choice but to cater to the lowest common denominators and try to make junior citizens into good law-abiding stepfordites. None of that for me, gracias. Fortunately teachers of mine like Isabel Golinsky and Chet Fulmer encouraged a love of literature that banished any semblance of a craving for conformity that may ever have existed in me. Acid trips-- before I could figure out how to travel around the world and immerse myself in other cultures-- pushed me along even further-- and faster.

My last acid trip was on New Year's Eve, 1969. I never drank a beer in my life and I haven't used drugs for three and a half decades. But I still revel in travel, the geographic kind. Last year I was letting my cup runneth over with the joy of all these amazing new restaurants in Bangkok. (I was only there for a week, on the way back to America from a more extended-- and relaxing-- visit to Bali, and there wasn't enough time for my culinary tour of one of my all-time favorite cities.) I said to myself, "Self, why don't you write a guide book to Bangkok restaurants?" I used to be the restaurant critic for a weekly business newspaper in San Francisco (when I was poor and in need of free meals) and I was one of the original correspondents for the now very popular Zagat's Guide. But a restaurant guide to Bangkok never quite got off the drawing board-- nor even onto it. Instead I started blogging about the criminality of George W. Bush, Randy "Duke" Cunningham, Tom DeLay, etc at Down With Tyranny. Oh I love that and occasionally I throw in something about a film or music or a restaurant.

A few months ago, when I was just figuring out how to blog, an old friend from my days in San Francisco (hers too), Jane Hamshire of FireDogLake invited me to a leftie bloggers get together in Mullet, California. One of the people I met there was Pat Saperstein who does a not-leftie-at-all blog called Eating L.A.. I think restaurant reviews go over better there than on Down With Tyranny (alas). This year I spent a month in Spain and Morocco-- having returned last night-- and a month in Bali and Thailand. Whenever I try writing about stuff like this-- or about music or food or health... topics that interest me as much as Bush-bashing-- I get a load of letters complaining and demanding I go back to Bush-bashing. Fine, fine. This will be the only time I write something for both Down With Tyranny and for my brand new child, Around the World Blog. Welcome. (How long do you think it will take before I get letters from people complaining about the travel blog being too political?)

The Sunny Side Up Donburi from Shinjuku

Sunny Side Up Don

That may sound and look a bit weird, but it was the lunch special at Shinjuku today. It was literally as you see it in the photo: a bowl of plain white rice topped with two eggs sunny side up, a slice of ham, and a touch of soy sauce. I'm not sure if this is very Japanese (sounds rather Hawaiian to me instead), but it was surprisingly good, maybe just because it was so darned simple. And the best part about it was that it was still the usual S$10 (US$8) tax inclusive price. I swear, if our office were closer to here, I'd be here nearly every day for a healthy and affordable meal.

WSJ Photo Journal: Sufi Anniversary

Photo © Deepak Sharma/AP-All Rights Reserved

The WSJ's Photo Journal has featured the above photograph by Deepak Sharma (AP) of Pakistani pilgrims carrying an offering of embroidered cloth (which I believe is called kiswa) to cover the tomb of Sufi saint Khawaja Moinuddin Chisti on the anniversary of his birth in Ajmer, India.

I should have been there!!! My kind of event!

Shaikh Khawaja Syed Muhammad Moinuddin Chisti was the most famous Sufi saint of the Chishti Order of the Indian Subcontinent. He introduced and established the order in South Asia, and was succeeded by various notable saints such as Nizzam Uddin Auliya.

I've never checked on this, but Khawaja in Egyptian Arabic means "foreigner", and was used as a title for all Greek and Italian residents (as an example) in Egypt, so I'm not sure if there's a connection or not. Wikipedia defines Khawaja as a title used by South Asians, which is possibly related to Khoja as well.

Oaxaca: La Guelaguetza

Photo © Tewfic El-Sawy -All Rights Reserved

Our "almost-a-week-long" Oaxaca Mini Photo-Expedition™ was replete with daily serendipitous photo opportunities. Lynn Padwe, Carl Meisel, Li Lu-Porter, Maria Dikeos and I roamed the streets of this wonderful town in search of photographic scenes, and we weren't disappointed.

Naturally, it was the Zocalo...the throbbing heart of Oaxaca, that offered the most in terms of photo ops, and we made the most of it. It's always a wonderment that Oaxaca (and certainly other similar towns in Mexico) always has something going on in its main square. During our 5 days there, every evening saw some sort of cultural event; a classical performance by the Oaxaca orchestra, a performance by a wide-throated Mariachi singer, a Guelaguetza festival for young children (above) and the weekly dance event.

After photographing the events, we would invariably make a beeline towards the various cafes and restaurants that line the square for drinks and/or dinner.

Note: I've recently noticed that a number of travel photographers have now started to appropriate the Photo-Expedition moniker that I've used for years. I guess imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.

IF I DIDN'T ALREADY CONVINCE YOU OF THE WONDERS OF CAPPADOCIA, HERE ARE TWO MORE WITNESSES


A couple of months ago my old friend Kristin and her husband Nick were thinking about going to Turkey and Kristin checked out what I has to say about Cappadocia after I got back last year. After a quickly arranged lunch she went home and booked her flights and reserved a suite at the Esbelli. This morning I got an e-mail from her and Nick-- from the cave.

Turkey is amazing.  This will have to rank as the best trip we have ever taken....Rein Daddy and Howie you were dead on and we are grateful for your education and advice...We had no idea how beautiful this country was, as well as how fantastic the people are.

We are in Cappadocia right now in the interior of the country. It is snowing outside, but we are toasty warm in a cave where we are sending this email (high speed DSL I might add) resting from a long hike into some deserted caves, valleys, villages, etc...

We have not encountered a single tourist here, let alone an American. We are truly living among the Turkish people, and they seem so fascinated with the site of an American.  On countless occasions, we will be walking into a tiny shop (like 40 sq') to buy a water or something when the owner rushes to grab some old chairs from the back for us to sit in while he serves us apple tea and then just sort of stands there smiling and looking at us.  It may sound strange, but their warmth and hospitality transcends all language barriers. Today, we were in a shop and this older woman (covered as most of them are here) comes up to Kristin like she just found her long lost daughter with a smile beaming ear to ear and just starts touching her face smiling and laughing and saying "Guzel...guzel" which we have learned means beautiful. The fact that this is a 98% Muslim country should not dissuade anybody from coming here. We have felt safe everywhere we've been, except for a crazy taxi ride in Istanbul a week ago.

So far, we have spent around 4 days in Istanbul, 3 days in Selcuk (Ephesus), and now we are in a small town called Urgup in Cappadocia. We have traveled region to region by airplane due to the size of this country and cheap tickets. Istanbul was a great introduction to Turkey, and the different customs and such. It's pretty crazy as you are walking down the street when you hear the Muslim Call to Prayer echoing from loud speakers throughout the city. This goes on about 5 times a day.  It's pretty cool, except at 5 am when you are trying to sleep. So, we went to the massive and impressive Blue Mosque, the Aya Sophia, Topkapi Palace, as well as shopped at the Grand Bazaar.  Of course, we did a lot of eating too. The food here is pretty damn good. Sort of a East meets West...The spices remind me of sort of a mix between Moroccan, Greek, and Indian, and Kapabs are the big thing here. I must have had a couple dozen by now. Turkish pancakes (like quesadillas) and Pide (like pizza) are also favorites of ours.

In Selcuk, we felt like personal guests of the hotel owner -- Erdal. We just couldn't believe he had other hotel guests, because he was our personal guide throughout the region. He drove us to all of the major sights, restaurants, and even to run our errands.  Anything we wanted, Erdal was there to provide.

Ephesus was, bar none, the best ruins that we've ever experienced. You are in an ancient city with tons of history-- Alexander the Great was here, Jesus's disciples Paul and John were here, the Virgin Mary was here, multiple Emperors were here. It's so easy to imagine what life was like 2000 years ago and what a bright and vibrant time the 200,000 citizens must have experienced. The frescoes, mosaic floors, fountains with multiple statues, and terrace houses were amazing and well preserved. The houses even had hot and cold water running in them!

If you come to Turkey, you are nearly required to purchase a carpet, and we've met our quota. We are thrilled with the 9x6 and 4x6 carpets that are on their way to California as we speak. Any carpet salesman is delighted to give you an education of Turkish carpet making (only women make the carpets), but we decided to buy from Erdal and his partner, Nazmi and we think we got a pretty good deal. 

We're on our first day in Cappadocia and we are in one of the greatest hotels that ever existed. We feel like we've landed in a parallel universe that is featuring "Cave Hotels of the Rich and Famous."  It's called Esbelli Evi (look it up online) and much like our experience in Selcuk, our host Ramazan has taken us under his wing and is directing our tour of the region. For the next three days we are hiring a driver to take us to see sights throughout the region. This costs nearly the same as renting a car and doing it by ourselves. We just can't wait!

Cappadocia's terrain is frequently compared to being on the moon with incredible rock formations, mountains, and valleys that are one of a kind. We were prepared for it to be a bit cooler in this region, but didn't expect snow. Don't worry too much about us too much though, 
today we bought 2 pairs of wool socks, 2 pairs of wool gloves, and 2 hats for about $15.00 and lunch consisting of 2 pizzas and 2 drinks set us back a cool $4.80 with tip.

Well, just as we were sending this a couple from Toronto just checked in to the "cave" and agreed to explore and hike Cappadocia with us and our driver making this even more affordable. I think $15 a head for an entire day with a private car and driver. As they say in Turkey, Hoshchacal for now.  We know about 7 words including two numbers (Bir, Ichi) but we're always learning more.
It appears that the general strike that hit Kathmandu a few days back has been lifted. According to this article (via The Advenurist) the businesses in Nepal decided to lift the strike after the eight ruling parties in the Nepalese government vowed to work towards meeting some of the demands of businesses in the city. This comes as a major relief for all the climbers currently in the city who feared being able to actually fly out to the various regions they'll be climbing in this Spring.

Meanwhile, MountEverest.net has published a new update from the region as well, and indicate that teams acclimatizing in the Khumbu Valley are begging to get their first look at Everest as they trek closer to the mountain. Other teams are arriving for Spring climbs on Cho Oyu and Dhaulagiri as well.

Activity in the Himalaya is picking up with more teams arriving this weekend as well. It wont be long until "Tent City" is alive with activity and the Sherpa guides will go to work on fixing ropes and setting up camps. That's whent he fun begins. Stay tuned!

Mattar Road No Signboard Seafood Restaurant



We still needed a bit more food after that doujiang, so we walked further up the street and just happened to come across the Geylang outlet of No Signboard (412 Geylang Road, 6842-3415). We were actually just looking for some simple noodles, but then when we saw them doing some kind of crab bee hoon, we figured that we'd get that since it included some noodles as well.

I can only assume that this was partially inspired by Sin Huat Eating House, although it's been so long since I was last there that I can't really remember enough about it to make a proper comparison. Nonetheless, this was pretty good, thanks not only to the richness of the shellfish, but also the depth provided by what I believe was some kind of Chinese rice wine.

If I heard the lady correctly, she gave us the lighter and more modern rendition of this dish rather than the darker and more traditional option that was available. Note to self: if you come here again with only two people, make sure you upsize the noodles to a medium portion even if you keep the crab size to a small 1 kg (2.2 lbs). That pot alone was plenty to fill our bellies for the night.

Flight Network Contributions

I've added another outlet to the sites that I am contributing for and for the past few weeks, I've been posting to the Let's Roll Blog over at FlightNetwork.com. My postings to the site are more travel related with a slant towards adventure travel and a mix of a few gear reviews as well. The site is still relatively new but it is ramping up quickly and the editors have big plans for where they would like to go.

Here is a sampling of some of the posts that I, and others, have written to the blog recently:


Just a few articles to give readers an idea of what the blog is all about. If you're a traveler, you'll probably find a lot to like over there. Add it to your list of favorites and give it a go every once in awhile. 

Bacon Bowls, Olive Oil, and Corned Beef

Bacon Bowl

Here were a few interesting things that we came across over the past few days, the first of which was this appalling plastic mold that allows one to create a bowl made from bacon...and then serve such healthy things like macaroni and cheese out of it. [facepalm] Yes, it was from the As Seen On TV section of a late night drug store.

Trader Joe's California Olive Oil

This olive oil, on the other hand, was surprisingly good. See, I'm a bit finicky when it comes to olive oil, as I prefer the sharp grassy taste of a Sicilian (or perhaps Spanish) oil over anything else. So I was a bit surprised to find how much I liked this Californian bottle at Trader Joe's. It still wasn't as punchy as the deep green Sicilian stuff that I'm inclined to, but if I were living near a Trader Joe's, I'd be buying a lot of this stuff as a much more affordable - if slightly milder - alternative.

Whole Foods Corned Beef

Finally, with today's being St. Patrick's Day, I was happy to have some corned beef and cabbage at home, especially since I haven't had it in a very long time. We opted for a house-brined version from Whole Foods, which turned out better than I thought it would be, especially compared to the salty factory-sealed kind that we'd had in the past. I gobbled up the tender stuff in seconds, asking for more.
All Photos © Neal Jackson-All Rights Reserved

I just stumbled on this collage of photographs made by Neal Jackson during the Foundry Photojournalism Workshop (FPW) in Manali last June.

It appears that some the FPW instructors are fond of using their hands whilst conducting their classes....virtually the same gestures and mannerisms!

From the top left is Michael Robinson Chavez, top right is Ron Haviv, bottom right (in red) is Ami Vitale, and bottom left is Tewfic El-Sawy (The Travel Photographer). Click on it for a larger version.

The 2010 Foundry Photojournalism Workshop is scheduled for 20 – 26 June in Istanbul.
Beef Stroganoff

Wow, I'm surprised that SQ still has these old school seats in operation. Sure, that might make sense for a short hop to KL or something, but this was a five or six hour run to Beijing, and there was no in-seat power, no video on demand, and definitely no Wi-Fi. Yes, I'll admit that I'm a bit spoiled, but even United Economy has in-seat power (and VOD and sometimes Wi-Fi) in Asia. I'm not sure why SQ's website wouldn't let me pre-order an Indian meal either.
If you’d like to keep up with daily images and information about Ireland’s fantastic heritage sites please consider following Abarta Audioguides on FacebookTwitter and Instagram.

The exceptionally well-preserved mid-15th century friary of Rosserk is beautifully positioned on an estuary of the River Moy. It was founded in around 1441 for the Third Order of Franciscans. These were married men and women who wanted to lead a life according to the ideals of St Francis, but because of their married status, they were unable to join the First Order of Franciscans (friars) or the Second Order (nuns).


There are suggestions that the site takes its name from ‘Ros Searc’, or ‘Searc’s Wood’. Searc appears to have been a little known female saint, who is said to have founded an early monastery on the site, though no early remains have yet been identified.
Most of the buildings you can explore today date to the 15th century, and include the church with a slender bell tower; and a small cloister along with a number of other buildings, some domestic, to the north. Upstairs in the buildings you can find dormitories, a kitchen and a refectory.

Rosserk contains some fascinating examples of medieval craftsmanship, including the eastern window with its delicate and elaborate stone tracery, and the piscina where the holy vessels were washed during the mass. The piscina is a wonderful example, and has a sculpture of a pair of angels in the top right hand corner, and a unique carving of a round tower on one of the jambs.


This may represent the round tower at nearby Killala – a site that would have been in ruins for centuries before the construction of the friary at Rosserk – potentially showing an intriguing suggestion of regard of ancient monuments by the medieval sculptor.
Rosserk was burned in 1590 by Sir Richard Bingham, Governor of Connacht. Bingham appears to have been a formidable and ruthless military leader, infamously stating that ‘…the Irish were never tamed with words but with swords’. He attempted to destroy the power of the MacWilliam Burkes of Co Mayo in a relentless and bloody campaign.

It was also Bingham who ordered that any Spanish survivors of the Armada who landed in Connacht should be brought to Galway and put to death there, leading to an estimated 1,000 executions. His brutal and punitive rule led to a number of insurrections and uprisings, and he came into constant conflict with the famous ‘Pirate Queen’ Gráinne Mhaol. Rosserk was possibly burned as part of reprisal measures to forcefully subdue the Burkes.
However today Rosserk is a peaceful and tranquil spot, and along with a visit to nearby Moyne Abbey (just 4km to the north), it really does make for a great day out. Rosserk is free to enter all year round. You’ll find it approximately 7km north of Ballina signposted off the R314, at co-ordinates: 54.171255, -9.143696.

I really hope you enjoy our blog. If you'd like to discover more stories about Irish history, archaeology and culture and if you'd like to support us you can download audioguides from my website abartaheritage.ie, where we have 25 guides that tell the story of Irish heritage and the majority are absolutely free to download. 

If you’d like to keep up with daily images and information about Ireland’s fantastic heritage sites please consider following Abarta Audioguides on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram.

New York Times Reviews The Grand Canyon Skywalk


I came across this article from the New York Times while browsing The Goat Blog over at BackCountry.com.

It's the first review I've seen on that fance new Skywalk that the Hualapai Indians built over the Grand Canyon. The $30 million structure projects 70 feet out over the canyon, and is transparent, allowing visitors to seemingly walk out into space. Customers have been lining up to pay $75 a pop to stroll out onto the Skywalk, and to experience an intense form of vertigo.

The reviewer isn't all that impressed however, as he felt that there were just as stunning of views not that far away that would cost you nothing, and wouldn't have the natural setting destroyed by a man made mounument to consumerism. He went on to say that the Tribe's near by resort does nothing for the setting either, and that you're better served spending your time, and money, on the North or South Rims.

Personally, I thought paying $25 for the experience was a bit much when it was reported that that would be the cost to walk out on to the Skywalk. However, I figured at that price, you could still cough up the dough and not feel completely ripped off. But $75? Forget it! I'm sure the experience is one that has to be seen to be enjoyed completely, but I'll take my 75 clams and go elsewhere. Like, you know, down into the Canyon itself.

Video: Climbing And BASE Jumping Fishers Towers Near Moab

Ancient Art is the name of one of the Fishers Towers, a rock column located not far from Moab, Utah. The face is about 400 feet in height, and as you'll see in the video below, a challenging climb. Recently Hayley Ashburn and Marshall Miller made the ascent and then BASE jumped from the top. The entire adventure is chronicled in this video and shot on GoPro of course.

Gear Junkie's Greatest Gear: #4 and #3!


Ok, now this list is getting very intresting. We're talking some super cool stuff here, and I'm not just saying that because one of the times is a pack! I love packs! ;)

If you're joining us late, in celebration of is fifth year as a gear reviewer, The Gear Junkie, aka Stephen Regenold is counting down his Top Ten Gear of the Past Five Years! Today were down to numbers 4 and 3.

Holding down the number 4 spot is the Virga Pack from Granite Gear. This pack basically consists of one large compartment and some padded straps to throw it on your back with. As the Gear Junkie notes ,there is no frame at all, and you create a rigid pack by placing a sleeping pad inside of it and letting it uncoil against the sides of the bag. Stuff the rest of your gear in, and off you go. The whole pack weighs a mear 1 pound 3 ounces while still providing 3200 cubic inches of space. All for about $110. *drool*

The "bronze metal" of this list, making the podium at number 3, is the Kona Jake The Snake. This bike is designed for both on and off road adventures and is built for speed in all kinds of conditions. It's light, fast, and doesn't have a suspension, but will handle just about anything you throw at it. That thing looks like a blast to ride and it's relatively affordable at $1350.

Tomorrow will bring us the top two spots on the list. Can't wait to see what they are.

Outside Announces Gear of the Year


According to this article Outside magazine has announced it's Gear of the Year for 2007. Starting with over 400 products to test, they narrowed it down to 15 winners for their annual awards.

This years winners are:

• ROAD RUNNER: New Balance 902
• TRAIL RUNNER: Adidas J S3
• ROAD BIKE: Kestrel RT700
• MOUNTAIN BIKE: Felt Virtue Two
• SHELL: The North Face Cipher Windstopper
• LIGHT HIKER: La Sportiva Sandstone GTX-XCR
• BACKPACK: Granite Gear Nimbus Meridian
• TENT: Big Agnes Emerald Mountain SL 2
• SLEEPING BAG: Mountain Hardwear UltraLamina 32
• SURFBOARD: MR 1979 Retro Single-Fin
• KAYAK: Jackson Kayak Fun
• SUNGLASSES: Oakley Radar
• DIGITAL CAMERA: Panasonic DMC-LX2
• LUGGAGE: REI Stratocruiser 25
• GPS: Magellan CrossoverGPS

Apparently the full article is in the current news stand edition, and I'm sure it'll be on the online edition soon. So what items on the list are going to make it into your gear box? I'm digging that Big Agnes tent, the Felt Mountain Bike, and of course the Granite Gear Pack. :)

Everest: More Summits To Come!


Reports from Everest are that the weather is holding out and that the forcast for the weekend looks great. That means we can expect more teams to summit in the next few days. All the activity this week has seen a lot of climbers reach the top, but there are still plenty of teams waiting for their chance.

MountEverest.net has posted an update this morning with all kinds of news. The Super Sherpas are reporting that the bodies of the two Korean climbers who died on the South West Face have been recovered. It seems the pair were sleeping in their tend when an avalanche hit, although the full details haven't been released yet. They also note that a number of climbers, such as Mike Haugen, who is up at C1, and the Alpine Ascents Team, currently at C2, are still moving into position to make their bids.

Meanwhile, Tim Warren was suppose to top out today, but has turned back. His latest dispatch says that a prolonged cough, common on the mountain, has left him with a throat infection, and kept him from reaching the top. The Cracking Days Team also turned back after witnessing the death of the Japanese climber a few days ago. That's enough to rattle anyone, and it's good judgement not to continue up the mountain when you see something like that. Coming with 125 meters of the summit and turning back isn't easy, but it's a clear sign of a good mountaineer when he knows the proper time to head down.

Be sure to check out Alan Arnette's Everest 2007 Page for updates though out the day. The chart he has at the top of the page is most useful in keeping track of where everyone is on the mountain. I'm sure Jason, over at The Adventurist will also be updating with news as it breaks as well.
Wednesday marks the start of the 10th annual Mark Webber Tasmania Challenge, a 341 km (211 miles) adventure race held in the remote Tasmanian wilderness. The event is hosted each year by F1 star Mark Webber, who happens to be a huge fan of endurance sports and adventure racing in particular. Webber ended his long racing career last Sunday after competing in the Brazilian Grand Prix.

The course for this year's Tasmania Challenge runs along the West Coast of the Australian island. The five-day race features coed teams with some incredible athletes mixed into the field. While Webber himself is unable to compete this year, fellow F1 driver Mitch Evans is giving the Challenge a go for the first time. He's joined by Olympians Emma Snowsill, who competed in the triathlon, and Kenny Wallace who is a world class kayaker. As is usual with an adventure race of this kind, the stages will include mountain biking, trail running, paddling and various other disciplines.

The elite teams will be competing for a piece of the $30,000 purse, while others will be taking part in the charity fundraiser. Most of the proceeds generated from the Tasmania Challenge goes to Whielion, an organization which provides a number of service for at-risk youth in Australia. Additionally, some of the funds also go to the Save The Tasmanian Devil fun as well.

Once the race gets underway you'll be able to follow the progress of the teams and get updates on daily standings from the official website.

The Sabarimala Pilgrimage: Asim Rafiqui

Photo © Asim Rafiqui-All Rights Reserved

It's always a pleasure to start off the month with a super interesting post.

Here's a religious event/festival that not only fires up my adrenaline and imagination, but whose descriptive details I savor with relish, particularly as these are written by one of my favorite writers, William Dalrymple, and photographed by one of my favorite photojournalists, Asim Rafiqui.

And naturally, this event (as one of the largest pilgrimage festival in southern India) will be added to my list of possible destinations for a photo~expedition in 2011 or beyond. Not as overhyped as the Kumbh melas, it's the sort of authentic event I would love to photograph and attend...and then produce photo-essays and audio slideshows. It is this kind of destination that I seek for my photo~expeditions, which are destination/event-driven rather than just hopscotching from one tourist spot to the other. The trek up to the temple takes a minimum of five hours on a crowded path and unfortunately, women aged 10-60 are excluded from the pilgrimage.

The festival is the Sabarimala pilgrimage, and it brings Hindus and Muslims together in a fashion that is seldom witnessed. It would be redundant for me to re-post what Dalrymple describes, so here is his article as published in The Guardian.

Here's Asim's post in his opus; The Idea of India, and in which he writes:
"Here, in this small town in Western Kerala, members of two communities have managed, through legend, lore and ritual, to create a shared spiritual and social space and bridged what many claim is an insurmountable divide. The Sabarimala pilgrimage, in the course of about forty days, will bring nearly 50 million pilgrims through this town, and to the Vavar mosque. The seventy kilometer trek from Erumeli to the mountain top shrine of the god Ayyappa at Sabarimala cannot be completed without first paying respects to his friend the Muslim pirate/saint Vavar and asking his permission to proceed."
Asim meets a guruswami who invites him to join his group to Sabarimala and, being of a different persuasion, assumes wrongly that the invitation was only rhetorical. As the guru leads his group towards the mountain shrine of Ayyappa, he waves and tells Asim that perhaps Ayyappan did not call him yet, but that when he was ready he'd ask him to come.

I hope Ayyapan includes me as well.
Photo © Jehad Nga-All Rights Reserved

"I respond more to fashion and fine-art, carrying these fields and variables in photojournalism." -Jehad Nga

The British Journal of Photography (which revamped its website) published an interview with Jehad Nga, one of my favorite photographers. This blog featured many posts on Nga, and his distinctive chiaroscuro style.

Titled From Kansas To Nairobi, the recent interview sheds a light on Nga's decision to join the Institute for Artist Management instead of VII and Magnum.

Nga first visited the Middle East in 2001 spending months in different medical volunteering positions in Gaza. When he interned at Magnum Photos in 2002, he was also training to become an Emergency Medical Technician. But since 2004, when he moved to East Africa, he's been dedicating most of his time to photography, working regularly for the New York Times.

Via photojournalism links

Jamie Williams: Tibet

Photo © Jamie Williams-All Rights Reserved

Here's some really terrific imagery of Tibet by photographer Jamie Williams, who's based in Sydney, Australia.

His biography is unfortunately sparse, and apart from dividing his time between photographing editorial and commercial imagery, and pursuing his own personal projects, we know that he won quite a impressive awards to include Honorable Mentions in Prix De La Photographie (Paris), and that he worked with many publications to include Australian Airlines Magazine, In Style, World Expeditions, etc.

There are quite a few of photographs in Jamie's Tibet gallery that I ought to mention; the juxtaposition of the prayer scrolls and the Mani stones images, the Tibetan woman with the prayer wheel in silhouette (above), the woman cradling a baby near a pile of Mani stones, and the woman walking underneath prayer flags in a village...just to mention a few. The gallery consists of 47 images, so you'll need a few minutes to enjoy them. And the photographs are big...really big! The size that photo editors want and like.

His travel galleries also include imagery from Nepal, India, Kashgar, Kyrgyzstan, his native Australia and Papua New Guinea.
Kilo's Beef Noodle Soup

To be sure, they didn't actually call this phở on the menu. Instead, it was simply their "beef noodle soup," and it was only after I took a few bites did I realize why. Sure, this bowl had the requisite ingredients, including rice noodles, bean sprouts, and cilantro. But the onions were grilled, giving it a lovely depth (think: In-N-Out grilled onions) that I'm surprised I hadn't seen other places do before. Mmm...it looked like I was going to like this thing a lot.

That was, until I ate the beef, which, while very tender, was marinated so sweetly that I flinched when I tasted it. It was basically a tare-marinated piece of yakiniku, which was fine on its own merits, but just wasn't what I wanted in that clear broth. Well, these guys claim to be inspired by both Vietnamese and Japanese cuisines, which explains the approach to that bowl (a modern approach to a traditional bowl of Asian noodles, I suppose).

I'll come for that grilled onion broth again, but I'll probably pluck out the meat and eat it with a bowl of rice on the side instead. It might also be interesting to go to the proper restaurant itself rather than this shared space inside of a clothing store, but I guess this location is a bit more convenient (181 Orchard Road #02-16, 6884-7560). Note that this item is only available on weekends.

Outdoor Weblog Interviews ... Well... Me!


The Outdoor Weblog has posted the second of their new weekly feature entitled "The Outdoor Enthusiast Next Door", and it just happens to be an interview with yours truly.

New Blog Queen Terah Shelton read about my recent trip to Africa and asked if I'd mind answering a few questions on the trip. What you see published on her blog is ther result, along with a few pictures from my safari gallery.

A big thanks to Terah for giving me the opportunity to write about my trip and sharing it with her readers. She did a great job of making me look good and selecting some of my favorite pics to accompany the article. I fully intend to continue my summary of the Kili climb here as well, once I get a little time to catch up, and more detailed thoughts on the safari as well.

Update: Part 2 of the interview has been posted on the website if you're interested in more.

Arnold's BBQ at Farmart Centre, Singapore

Cockles

I'm not even sure if that's really the name of this place; the Farmart website says that this place is called the 228 Coffee Stall instead (67 Sungei Tengah Road #43A). But when I tried to write the Chinese characters in Google Translate, it returned "Arnold," or anou in pinyin.

Anyway, this shockingly cheap S$4 (US$3.10) plate of fresh blood cockles paired with Tiger beer on ice was just the refreshing snack that we needed on such a scorching hot day. I kinda liked the otak-otak that the lady nearby was selling too...again at a shockingly cheap price of four pieces for only S$2 (US$1.60). I think the beer was more expensive than the food!

And this little Farmart village was kinda cool too. It seriously felt like being at some random village in Malaysia yet without requiring us to bring any passports. The prawn fishing area looked a bit run down though.

Video: Cheetah Licks A GoPro

The title of this post pretty much says it all. Safari guide Matthew Copham set his GoPro camera down while out in the field and he managed to capture a once in a lifetime shot. A curious cheetah wandered up to take a look at the strange device and then gave it a lick. Fortunately, the big cat didn't find the camera tasty enough to eat. Still, pretty cool footage none the less.

Landis Still A Cheater?!?!


According to this report over at Yahoo Sports Floyd Landis' "B" sample turned up traces of synthetic testosterone when follow-up tests were conducted on seven urine samples submitted by the Tour de France Champion. The article quotes from the French newspaper L'Equipe, where the report orginated.

Landis, who has continually maintained his innocence, claim that the tests should not have been conducted at all since his primary, or "A", sample tested negative for any banned substances. To further complicate matters, Landis' own "expert" was suppose to be allowed to witness the latest round of testing, but was barred from the room while the tests were conducted, despite an agreement that would have had him observe the testing process.

This latest twist in the story comes after a report a few months back that Landis' samples may have been mislabled, and someone else's samples were the ones actually being tested. Over the past ten months, there certainly has been a lot of back and fourths to this story. At this point, it's difficult to figure out who to believe. Clearly the French labs have issues with their testing process, that much is evident from other cases as well. But these samples testing positive doesn't bode well for Landis either. So, at this point, we either have a plot by the French to discredit another American cyclist, or Landis is guilty of using performance enhancing drugs. I'm not sure I'd rule out either option at the moment.

Thanks GoBlog!

National Geographic Announces Adventurers Of The Year!

While I was away last week National Geographic announced the 2014 Adventurers of the Year, a distinction that goes to 13 individuals who achieved extraordinary accomplishments in exploration, adventure sports, conservation or activism. As usual, this year's list includes climbers, skiers, endurance athletes and a host of other amazing individuals who pushed boundaries in some unique ways.

Amongst those who have earned a place of honor on the 2014 list are Dave and Amy Freeman, who traveled across North America on foot, in kayaks and on dogsleds, covering some 11, 647 miles (18,744 km) in the process. They're joined by Raphael Slawinski and Ian Welsted who put up the first ascent of the tricky K6 in Pakistan, and Sarah Marquis, who traveled on foot from Siberia to Australia over a three-year period. Unsurprisingly, Diana Nyad makes the list for her amazing swim from Cuba to the U.S., and ultra-runner Kilian Jornet is honored for his amazing feats of speed and athleticism in the mountains. See the full list by clicking here.

As has been the norm the past few years, Nat Geo is also letting us cast our vote on who we think should be the top adventurer. The winner of the vote will be named the People's Choice Adventurer of the Year in early 2014. Vote early and vote often by clicking here.

As usual, there are some very good choices on this list and some people that I've written about regularly. It's great to see some of the folks that we admire get recognition beyond just a niche following on the Internet. Congratulations to all of the winners. These honors are much deserved all around .

Thoughts on Adventure Bhutan


I posted a programming not a few days ago for a televisions how airing on The Discovery Channel called Adventure Bhutan. The two hour program aired last night, but in case you missed it, remember, it was on the Discovery Channel, I'm sure it will get played over. And over. And over...again.

Judging from the traffic logs for my blog, there seems to be a lot of interest in the show, so I thought that I'd share my thoughts on it while it's still fairly fresh in my mind. First off, I'll lament the fact that the show wasn't in HD, nor was it aired on the Discovery HD Channel. It would have looked amazing seeing Bhutan and it's stunning scenery in full HD. The show was letterboxed and seemed to be in the 16:9 aspect ratio, which leads me to believe that it was filmed in HD, just not aired in that format. But that's neither here nor there.

The show followed a team of adventurers and explorers as they traveled down the Mangde Chu River by whitewater raft and kayak. This area of the World has never been seen by Westerners before, and it's safe to say that it's likely not been visited by many (if any) humans before. There were points on the river where the rapids were rated as Class VI, which one of the members of the team explained meant that there was about a fifty percent chance of survival. Not only would you have to be a world class kayaker to survive this river, you would need excellent gear and boats to navigate the area, which probably points to the fact this was indeed the first group of people to explore the region.

The team certainly met with their hardships along the way. The river was more challenging than they expected in spots, and the narrow canyons made it difficult for them to run the rapids. They had to portage around some rather nasty areas, and those portages, over rocks and through jungle were not easy at all. When team leader Gerry Moffatt fell and gashed open his leg, there was a serious threat to his health and quite possibly his life. (I couldnt' have been the only one who winced in pain when they showed that gash!)

But of course, in the end, they were able to make the first descent on the Mangde Chu, and reach their destination at the border of Bhutan and India. I have to admit, it looked like quite the adventure, and there was some amazing white water to run. However, the show turned into more of an kayaking adventure and less of an exploration of the territory to me. As someone who enjoys kayaking very much, I was thrilled to watch them tackle some crazy rapids, but I really wanted to see more of this "Unexplored World" they kept telling us about. Yes, we did get some shots of the canyons and this new area that man was seeing for the first time, but often times we would get a shot of one of the team members telling us how amazing it was there, when what I really wanted to see was the things that made it amazing. The camera work wasn't exceptional while in the canyon, and there was little to distinguish the area from any other canyon on Earth. I was hoping for more of a mix of the white water kayaking and exploration elements at times. It also didn't help that it took the first hour of the show for the team to just arrive at the unexplored area.

That said, I was entertained by the program. It was great to see, and learn more, about Bhutan and the people there. It's a part of the World that many people don't even know exists, and few Westerners will ever travel to. The team setting off into an unknown region, by kayak no less, was fun to watch, and I did get into their struggle to reach their goal. All in all, I would say it was well worth the two hour investment, even if I would have liked to have seen more of a focus on what they found in the region they were exploring. The overall quality was what you would expect out of the Discovery Channel, which is to say very good, it just left me wanting a little more. I guess that just means I'll have to plan my own Bhutan Adventure. :)