Exploring Commonwealth Crescent Market
Sometime last year, I went over to Commonwealth Crescent Market with one objective: to try out Coocci, a Japanese chicken stall run by a former Ichigo guy (118 Commonwealth Crescent #02-92). The food didn't particularly stand out to me at that time, but I didn't get a chance to try the fried chicken either. I suspected that I'd probably like that better than the other stuff that I had, and it turned out that I was right. It was tender and juicy and went down the hatch quickly, even if it was a bit greasy.
In the process, we noticed that a lot of people were ordering wantan mee from Jian Kang Noodles at stall 02-77. We thus got one too, and we liked it, particularly the firm and eggy noodles that reminded me of why I like Mak's in Hong Kong so much. Of course, this was done in a local style (that happened to have disappointingly dry char siu, BTW) rather than how they do it in HK, but maybe next time I'm here I'll try asking for the soup version to really focus on the noodles without other distractions.
We rounded out this little hawker center with a few other items, including those chwee kueh above (not as tasty as the ones at Tiong Bahru, but good enough), as well as a pleasantly sweet oat dessert from Xi Le Ting at stall 70 (look for the stall with the old school porcelain bowls, not the dessert stall in the center). I kinda liked how peaceful this place was. Next time hopefully I can catch the porridge lady too; I recall getting a tasty yu sheng from her last time, although I can't recall specifically what it was that I liked about it.
Video: The Seal Of Approval For GoPro
Yesterday we saw a curious cheetah interacting with a GoPro camera, today its some playful seals. If this video doesn't put a smile on your face, we should probably check you for a pulse. This was shot near the Farne Islands off the coast of Northumbria in England where the seal pups seem to enjoy chasing people.
Seal of Approval from Jason Neilus on Vimeo.
DECEMBER IN YANGON, PART II-- AND HAPPY 60th ANNIVERSARY, MYANMAR!
Roland finds 2 monks the junta didn't murder
One thing I found all 3 countries-- India, Thailand and Myanmar-- that I've been visiting this winter have in common is that each is a society with starkly different and parallel worlds coexisting in tandem-- each seemingly occupying the same physical space but not much else. Each has a noticeably growing middle class-- rapidly growing and growingly confident in India and Thailand-- living alongside masses so deplorably impoverished and in such primitive circumstances that they hardly seem to be living in the same epoch. At Down With Tyranny a couple weeks ago, I mentioned that 700 million people in India-- 700 million-- have no sanitary facilities. But the rich are getting richer... much richer-- and more and more people are walking around with cell phones.
Myanmar, potentially just as developable as India and Thailand, is in a world of its own-- and a world of hurt. There is definitely a Burmese middle class in places like Yangon and Mandalay, even if every aspect of the society is held back and hampered by a severely dysfunctional and oppressive tyranny. The junta holds back development as a product of ideology and as a tactic in maintaining its own dominance through brutal authoritarianism. After the recent violent crackdown on peaceful human rights demonstrators-- a crackdown which included the military slaughtering hundreds of peaceful monks-- the regime suddenly increased the cost of satellite TV access to make it inaccessible to the middle class. I mentioned a few days ago that the junta had already banned the BBC and other western news sources, leaving people with nothing but the always inoffensive and tepid CNN-- cookie recipe shows and breathless news reports on Britney Spears latest foibles threaten no one-- on which to depend for outside news. But now, even that will be out of reach for the Burmese middle class.
In Thailand people eat out. I was looking at condos for sale while I was here and noticed all the kitchens had two-burner stoves. When I asked an agent why hat was he said that most Thais rarely prepare meals at home. Food is cheap, varied and incredibly abundant. You see mountains of food everywhere you look in Thailand and you see Thais eating... everywhere. Their cuisine is one of the best-developed in the world, extremely sophisticated... sublime. Myanmar, next door, is a slightly different story. Food, though hardly scarce, isn't nearly as plentiful or as varied. And the cuisine, though good, isn't n the same level as Thailand's. Nor are there the plethora of restaurants in Yangon that you find in Bangkok.
Burmese food, naturally enough, is greatly influenced by Chinese and Indian cooking. It's far milder-- some might even say blander-- than Thai food. We tend to avoid Italian food, French food, Chinese food, and especially "American food" when we're traveling. Eating the native food is a crucial art of the travel experience for me, as it is for Roland-- although he goes to extremes, eating insects and dogs and snakes and God knows what. (I'm happy as a clam when I discover a new fruit, like pomelo or lamut.) In Yangon we stuck to the Burmese restaurants. And we avoided dinners, concentrating on lunches-- something I always do when traveling but which is even more important in a place like Burma where preparation takes a long time and it's fresh at lunch and, basically, left over at dinner.
The best restaurant we found in Yangon is Sandy's right on the shore of Lake Kandawgy (in the Kandawgy Palace Hotel, a hotel as shabby as its restaurant is spectacular). The setting is serene and gorgeous, basically an immense veranda right on the shore overlooking a superb park. The menu is overwhelming and just goes on and on and on. You'd have to spend months there before getting a fair sampling. And the very reasonable prices are in dollars. Their salads are amazing. I went crazy for the tea leaf salad and the pomelo salad. But everything we tried was very good. A close runner-up was the Green Elephant, which is pretty far from downtown-- about a dollar taxi ride. The food was also very good but eating there was basically the only time we were in Myanmar when we were aware that there were other tourists in Yangon besides us. We only saw one other westerner at the Swedegon Pagoda, the most famous site in the country, but the Green Elephant was filled with westerners. There were far less westerners at the bountiful, and relatively cheap, buffet offered at Traders (Shangri-La) Hotel downtown, a place you can get decent Burmese food and a whole hodge-podge of international cuisine.
And the Happy 60th Anniversary referred to in the title? Burma gained its freedom from the British on January 4, 1948-- after a hard-fought struggle led by that country's George Washington, Bogyoke Aung San, father of the currently imprisoned legitimate elected head of state and Nobel Peace Prize winner, Aung San Suu Kyi.
Surfer May Have Ridden Biggest Wave Ever
Surfing isn't a topic I cover a lot here on the Adventure Blog, but this story is definitely worth mentioning. On Monday, Brazilian surfer Carlos Burle is believed to have set a new record for the largest wave ever ridden. He caught the massive 100 ft (30.5 meter) wave off the coast of Nazare, Portugal, a place that is known for it's giant swells. While the height hasn't been confirmed or made official yet, it is believed to be bigger than the previous record held by Garrett McNamara by more than 22 feet. The video below was shot while Burle was out on his board being chased by the giant wall of water. Definitely some impressive surfing and a scary sight.
The NY Times featured Howard French's exquisite portfolio of black & white photographs of residents of old Shanghai's densely packed neighborhoods inside their own homes, which is titled Discovering Shanghai's Secret City.
I was so taken by this type of work (and I guarantee you will too) that I looked for Howard French's other work and discovered his main photography website, and his equally wonderful Disappearing Shanghai: The Landscape Within among other galleries.
Howard French lived in Shanghai from 2003-2008 as chief of The Times’s bureau, and spent many weekends exploring the lesser known areas of Shanghai or the "densely packed place of tumbledown, two-story housing and long internal alleyways" as he describes them. He became a familiar sight for many of the residents, and knew what to expect at every corner, whther it'd be a mahjong game or a regular siting in a chair in his pajamas.
He returned to Shanghai last summer and for three months, he knocked on the doors of homes and asked himself in to document what he encountered.
To me, this is what documentary photography is all about. The photographer as a fly on the wall...seemingly unnoticed by his subjects...who perhaps either ignore his presence, got used to it or tolerate it....and from these frames, one can build a storyline. In the photograph above, the woman on the left is laughing at something/someone outside of the frame, and the younger woman looks at her somewhat pensively, while a third person is lying on the bed, possibly asleep. Can we guess the dynamics in this photograph? The wedding photograph hanging from the wall begs the question: is the bride and groom present in the room? Are they the laughing woman and the sleeping figure? Is the young woman their daughter?
Simple yet complex. I love it.
Gloria: Maestra de la Guelaguetza
During the Oaxaca Mini Photo~Expedition™ last week, we attended a Guelaguetza performance at one of the town's old hotels. I managed to get our group in the dancers' dressing room just before the performance, where we were introduced to Gloria, an experienced dancer who was dubbed "La Maestra" by the rest of the dancers.
Although heavy-set, Gloria had the flexibility, energy and liveliness of dancers half-her age, and she deafened us with her rhythmic whistling during the most frenetic parts of the dances. A real professional, with a wicked sense of humor.
La Guelaguetza is a perfomance of traditional dances from the seven regions of the state of Oaxaca. The performance is a re-creation of the original dance steps and music passed down through the generations. Dancers, and even musicians, wear costumes representative of their respective district, which are decorated with ribbons and sometimes bells.
The origin of the Guelaguetza dances dates fro pre-Columbian traditions, and the word "guelaguetza" is originally Zapotec Indian which means an offering or gift. In the true spirit of guelaguetza, the dancers at the end of their performance toss gifts, usually of fruits and vegetables, into the crowd. These offerings represent their region's specialty and include straw hats, flowers, mangoes and even pineapples.
This is what I described in my earlier POV post, and the fruits were eagerly awaited by some poor Zapotec children watching the children Guelaguetza.
Here's my gallery of La Guelaguetza photographs, made in 2007, which has additional details.
Himalaya Fall 2013: Update From Lunag-Ri
One of the few remaining expeditions in the Himalaya that we've been waiting on an update from was Chad Kellogg and David Gottlieb's attempt on Lunag-Ri, the tallest unclimbed peak in Nepal at 6895 meters (22,621 ft). We do know that the duo set off on a summit push a week and a half back, but we hadn't heard anything of them since. Yesterday Chad posted an update on their attempt and the difficulties the faced trying to reach the top.
After shuttling gear to ABC on Oct. 22, and taking a rest day on the 23rd, the two climbers launched the summit bid on Thursday, Oct. 24. Ahead of them was a 4500-foot (1371 meter) wall that has resisted all attempts in the past. The route is a mix of snow, ice and rock that is difficult under the best of conditions. Unfortunately for Chad and David, these weren't the best of conditions.
Chad goes into more detail about the ascent and the conditions that they faced on the climb. It seems that things were going about as well as could be expected, with the exception of debris falling down the mountain face due to warm sun and strong winds blasting the mountain. At one point, the men took refuge in a bowl that provided some shelter while they waited for the sun to go down and temperatures to cool the mountain. The thought being that it would be safer to climb once everything solidified as the snow and ice froze again. After waiting about two hours, they then continued up the slope.
Even though the temperatures had dropped, the mountain didn't solidify completely. Chunks of rock and other debris continued to rain down on the climbers and at one point they heard something big rip off the face and start to tumble down. It was a large rock that ended up striking Chad in the shoulder and causing a severe, if not serious, injury. The arm wasn't broken, but Chad couldn't raise it above his shoulder and was having a difficult time swinging an ice axe. There was no way to continue up, so they elected to descend, reassess the situation and decide what to do next.
Chad and David made it safely down to Base Camp where Chad's injury was checked out. It seems he's fine, but quite sore. They are now weighing their options and considering making another attempt along a different route. For now, we'll just have to wait to see if that is possible.
After shuttling gear to ABC on Oct. 22, and taking a rest day on the 23rd, the two climbers launched the summit bid on Thursday, Oct. 24. Ahead of them was a 4500-foot (1371 meter) wall that has resisted all attempts in the past. The route is a mix of snow, ice and rock that is difficult under the best of conditions. Unfortunately for Chad and David, these weren't the best of conditions.
Chad goes into more detail about the ascent and the conditions that they faced on the climb. It seems that things were going about as well as could be expected, with the exception of debris falling down the mountain face due to warm sun and strong winds blasting the mountain. At one point, the men took refuge in a bowl that provided some shelter while they waited for the sun to go down and temperatures to cool the mountain. The thought being that it would be safer to climb once everything solidified as the snow and ice froze again. After waiting about two hours, they then continued up the slope.
Even though the temperatures had dropped, the mountain didn't solidify completely. Chunks of rock and other debris continued to rain down on the climbers and at one point they heard something big rip off the face and start to tumble down. It was a large rock that ended up striking Chad in the shoulder and causing a severe, if not serious, injury. The arm wasn't broken, but Chad couldn't raise it above his shoulder and was having a difficult time swinging an ice axe. There was no way to continue up, so they elected to descend, reassess the situation and decide what to do next.
Chad and David made it safely down to Base Camp where Chad's injury was checked out. It seems he's fine, but quite sore. They are now weighing their options and considering making another attempt along a different route. For now, we'll just have to wait to see if that is possible.
POV: The Fact of The Matter...
The Marco Vernsachi & The Pulitzer Center "affair" seems to have somewhat calmed down after the considerable airing of divergent views, opinions and debate between photojournalists, photographers and journalists in the blogosphere.
Some of these views were expressed on Lightstalkers, which is a popular no-holds barred forum for photographers. Going through the posts, I saw one that claimed that the story (and its handling) was not only a blow to the credibility of photojournalism (which I agree), but also a blow to the credibility of some blogs (and their authors).
Huh? The Pulitzer Center was forced to formally admit (twice) its mistake in publishing an image of an exhumed corpse of a young Ugandan girl on its site, because of the bloggers' criticisms that it violated the rights of a child to dignity and privacy. If it hadn't been for the bloggers, these offensive photographs would be still on the Center's website, circulated on social networks and possibly worse.
I view this story and its results as vindication for those bloggers who had the courage of their convictions, and demand that these offensive photographs be pulled from the Pulitzer Center's website. It's hoped that the Pulitzer Centre will stand by its promise of redoubling its "efforts to authenticate every claim and to insure the privacy rights of individual victims".
The appropriate way to look at it is that the bloggers stepped in and redressed a wrong that would not have been committed had the parents of these unfortunate African children have recourse to a sophisticated legal system preventing such liberties with privacy rights.
Video: Timelapse From The Canary Islands
Filmed entirely on the island of Le Palma, the western most point in the Canary Islands, this timelapse video captures some amazing footage of that beautiful place. I particularly enjoy seeing the movement of the clouds as they wrap around a mountaintop observatory, which in turn opens up as time passes. I'm not sure why these timelapses are so compelling, but they certainly do a great job of capturing my imagination.
El Cielo de La Palma from Daniel López on Vimeo.
Børge Ousland and Thomas Ulrich Up To Old Tricks!
Polar Explorers Børge Ousland and Thomas Ulrich are up to their old tricks, launching a very ambitious expedition today. According to ThePoles.com the boys have teamed up once more for another epic journey that won't end at the North Pole, but will just begin.
Both men were guding teams to the North Pole at late as last week, but now they've been dropped at the Pole together to set off on their own. This time, they'll be traveling by skiis across the frozen Arctic Ocean to Franz-Josef Land, in Siberia. A trip of more than 900km. From there, they'll drop the skiis and move into kayaks as they travel another 350km to Cape Flora. The journey won't end there however, as they'll board a sailing ship that will take them back to Norway, but not to warm beds and lovely nordic women. Instead, Ousland and Ulrich will be dropped off at the North Cape, and they'll trek back to Oslo on foot.
When it's all said and done, the pair expect the journey to take about three and a half months, and they'll carry all of their supplies with them, as they'll be doing this one unsupported. This should be another amazing expedition to follow. Travel safe guys!
The Travel Photographer's Statistics
For some reason, my earlier post on this got deleted...
So here it is again:
I thought a little trumpet blowing would be appropriate this Sunday morning...so here goes.
The Travel Photographer blog is ranked 1st when searching using Google for "The Travel Photographer" (it's sort of obvious, but it's still cool)...
Using Google, it ranks 2nd when searching for "Travel Photographer" which is really phenomenal.
And it ranks 4th when searching for "Travel Photography" which is really really phenomenal.
I also found out that the blog has over 1300 feed subscribers!
Video: The Fields - A Short Film About Bouldering
I came across this short film this morning and thought it was well worth sharing. It is an 11-minute documentary about climber Andy White, who suffered a major injury when he fell while climbing a few years back. That accident impacted his approach to the sport, so he turned to bouldering to get his fix without having to deal with higher heights. Lucky for him, he has a great bouldering playground in his backyard in the form of the Boulderfields outside of Kelowna, British Columbia in Canada. The video shares Andy's story and gives us a glimpse of his passion for his new climbing obsession.
The Fields - A Bouldering Film from Clayton Arnall on Vimeo.
The Red Bull Rampage is always a cool event with downhill mountain bikers showing off their skills on a tough course in Utah. This year, second place rider Kelly McGarry was wearing a GoPro camera for his final run, which gives us a dizzying look at what it is like to ride this course. Along the way, McGarry also manages to pull of a couple of impressive backflips which definitely wowed the crowd. Watching this video definitely reaffirms my decision to leave this kind of riding to the professionals.
Claregalway Friary, County Galway
This Friary was originally commissioned by the Norman knight John de Cogan in the middle of the thirteenth century. The main structures on the site are the large nave and chancel church that probably dates between the late 13th – early 15th century, and later in the middle to late fifteenth century, a large bell tower, an aisle and a transept were added.
The elaborate canopied tomb of the de Burgh's |
Claregalway Friary is one of Ireland's finest Franciscan Friaries. It is thought that the Franciscans first arrived in Ireland in the early thirteenth century, shortly after the death of the orders founder St. Francis of Assisi in 1226. They established a base in Dublin, and by the middle of the thirteenth century they had Friaries in Kilkenny, Waterford, Wexford, Drogheda, Athlone, Cork, Ennis, Limerick, Dundalk, Carrickfergus, New Ross, Multyfarnham, Nenagh, Ardfert, Kildare, Armagh and here at Claregalway. Most of these Friaries were founded by Anglo-Norman nobles like John de Cogan, and the powerful William de Burgh is said to have commissioned a foundation in Galway.
The tomb plaque added to the de Burgh tomb dating to 1648 |
The Friary has a number of well preserved medieval and post-medieval tombs, and you can see some great sculptural details if you keep your eyes open around the site.
Like so many of Ireland's monastic foundations Claregalway was dissolved by King Henry VIII in the early 1540's during the Dissolution of the Monasteries in the Reformation. After King Henry had rejected Papal authority, he quickly moved to have all the religious orders closed down as they were under the authority of the Pope, though perhaps his prime motivation for closing down all the wealthy monastic sites was to raise much needed capital to finance his foreign wars.
During the reign of Queen Elizabeth I the Friary was used as a barracks for her troops.
Claregalway Friary was given to the Earl of Clanricarde in the early seventeenth century, and the Franciscans returned in the early 1640's though they lacked the capital to conduct all the necessary renovations to return the site to its former glory.
By the eighteenth century the decline of Claregalway Friary was clear enough that the French diplomat Coquebert de Montbret wrote in 1791 that “the monks are settling down among the ruins.”
Today Claregalway Friary is certainly worth visiting when you are in the area. It has a number of great features to discover and is a rewarding place to spend an hour or two.
The site couldn't be easier to find, it is just on the N17 road from Galway to Tuam on the northern side of Claregalway. The site is surrounded by a modern graveyard, but is still easily accessible with a small carpark.
We hope you enjoy our articles, to find out more information about great heritage sites in Ireland please do visit our website www.abartaaudioguides.com where for just €1.99 you can download one of our critically acclaimed audioguides that tell the story of some of Ireland's iconic heritage sites. Packed with original music and sound effects they are a fun and immersive way of discovering Ireland's past!
An Afternoon Outing to Yilan, Taiwan
The local team here had an afternoon outing to the coastal town of Yilan planned today. This was a place that I was always kinda curious about, given not just the presence of a whiskey distillery (in Taiwan?), but also a focus on growing spring onions. Before getting there though, we stopped for lunch at some famous seafood place called Du Hsiaw Uyea (58 Fuxing Road Section 3), where they served a lot of seafood like those fresh headfat-filled prawns above. One pleasant surprise was a white-ish chicken broth that they gelatinized into cubes and deep fried; it was deliciously savory.
After that, we went to the Kavalan whiskey distillery, where we of course stopped for some tasting. I'm not a huge whiskey person though, so I was more excited about our next destination, a spring onion farm in Sanxing where we learned how to plant, pluck, and clean scallions, while also turning them into griddle-fried pancakes. Yilan is supposed to be famous for its spring onions; I wonder if that's kinda like Maui onions where the soil's composition is one of the things that make them taste better.
Hill of Slane, County Meath
The Hill of Slane in County Meath is a place steeped in Irish myth, legend and history. The site is positioned on the top of a hill that rises nearly 160 metres above the surrounding landscape, and offers beautiful and commanding views of the surrounding lands. This elevated position made it a strategic and desirable place for thousands of years.
According to Irish mythology, this was the burial place of Sláine mac Dela. He was the King of the legendary Fir Bolg, and was buried here at Dumha Sláine, from where we get the modern name, Slane.
The Hill of Slane is also part of the legends that grew around St. Patrick. According to legend, Patrick was the son of a wealthy Romano-British nobleman, he was captured by a band of Irish marauders who were raiding Wales for slaves. They brought him back to Ireland and reportedly sold the young Patrick to a druid. This druid made Patrick keep watch over his sheep, and kept him for six years before Patrick managed to escape and return home to his family. At home Patrick decided he wished to become a Christian, and entered the church, eventually reaching the rank of bishop. He returned to Ireland seeking to convert the country from Paganism to Christianity.
As part of this mission, the legend states that Patrick chose to attack and subvert one of the most important Pagan traditions. The main pagan festivals of the time were Imbolg marking the beginning of Spring, Bealtine marking the beginning of summer, Lughnasa was a harvest festival usually set in late August and Samhain marking the beginning of winter.
Of these festivals one of the most important was the rituals surrounding Bealtine. All the fires across the country would be extinguished to mark the end of the winter, and a great fire that could be seen for miles around would then be lit at dawn on the Hill of Tara, this symbolized the dawn of a new year. Patrick sought to hijack this pagan practice. He lit a huge fire here on the Hill of Slane. This burned throughout the night before the Kings warriors managed to capture Patrick and haul him back to Tara to answer to the King. Legend has it that Patrick then managed to perform many feats and miracles to prove to the King that the Christian God was far more powerful than the old Gods, and in the famous story he used a three leaved Shamrock to explain the mysteries of Christianity to the King. While the King had no wish to convert to Christianity himself, he was convinced enough to allow Patrick to continue on his mission to spread Christianity across Ireland.
Again historians question and dispute the legend. This history of Christianity in Ireland was written just two centuries after the events being described. This meant it was still important to the Christian scribes to show that the Old Gods had been defeated in their own heartland by the Godly Patrick, allowing a clear path for the new religion to become the dominant faith in the country. In the few writings actually ascribed to Patrick himself, he never mentions Slane or Tara, and it is possible that he never even ventured there. However as the Christian monks and scribes were generally the only literate people at the time, we only have one version of the story. However we do know that the site was important to the early Irish Church, as a monastery was founded on the hill by St. Erc who died in 514 AD. This monastery is mentioned a number of times in the Annals of Ireland as being an important centre of early Irish law. It is also mentioned for a number of Viking raids that struck the site. Most notably in 948 AD when it is recorded that the 'abbot of Slane was taken prisoner and died in pagan hands', and two years later in 950 AD the; 'bell-tower of Slane was burned, together with a particularly fine bell and the crozier of the patron saint, and the lector and many people were burned after they took refuge with the monastery's valuables in the tower'.
Though nothing remains above ground of the early 6th century monastery, today visitors to the Hill of Slane can find a superbly preserved 16th Century Franciscan Church and College.
These remains are a wonderful place to explore. Both the church and college are thought to date to 1512 when Sir Christopher Fleming, Baron of Slane, founded the site for the Franciscan order. The church has a particularly fine bell tower with a large gothic window. See if you can spot the strange stone head leering from above the windows of the tower on one side of the church.
The college was established to serve the church. It housed four priests, four choristers and four lay-brothers. It was constructed around an open quadrangle, with the priests quarters on the northern side. You can still explore some of the great original features like the staircases (please do take extreme care in wet-weather), and see the fireplaces, window mouldings and even a double garderobe (a good old classy medieval toilet).
As you explore the ruins keep an eye open for some of the superb stone sculpture and carvings you can discover on the Hill of Slane. Like this dragon or wyvern (left). If you go inside the large vaulted room on your right as you enter the college, you can also see a large collection of decorated stone fragments.
The Hill of Slane is a great place to visit. The site is free to enter and has a large carpark. However please make sure that you take care (especially with small children) inside the ruins of the college, as the staircases may become dangerous in wet weather. There are a number of other great sites to see nearby such as the Hill of Tara. If you'd like to hear about the wonderful Hill of Tara and discover why it is one of Ireland's most important historical sites try our audioguide available for just €1.99 from www.abartaaudioguides.com – full of original music and sound effects it's a wonderfully immersive and fun experience. Follow the link for a free preview.
The Hill of Slane is well signposted from Slane, just head north up the hill on the N2 through Slane and take a left turn at Chapel Street/N2.
If you enjoy our posts perhaps you may like to keep up with our latest information and photographs of Irish heritage sites on Facebook, Google+ or Twitter.
According to Irish mythology, this was the burial place of Sláine mac Dela. He was the King of the legendary Fir Bolg, and was buried here at Dumha Sláine, from where we get the modern name, Slane.
The Hill of Slane is also part of the legends that grew around St. Patrick. According to legend, Patrick was the son of a wealthy Romano-British nobleman, he was captured by a band of Irish marauders who were raiding Wales for slaves. They brought him back to Ireland and reportedly sold the young Patrick to a druid. This druid made Patrick keep watch over his sheep, and kept him for six years before Patrick managed to escape and return home to his family. At home Patrick decided he wished to become a Christian, and entered the church, eventually reaching the rank of bishop. He returned to Ireland seeking to convert the country from Paganism to Christianity.
As part of this mission, the legend states that Patrick chose to attack and subvert one of the most important Pagan traditions. The main pagan festivals of the time were Imbolg marking the beginning of Spring, Bealtine marking the beginning of summer, Lughnasa was a harvest festival usually set in late August and Samhain marking the beginning of winter.
Of these festivals one of the most important was the rituals surrounding Bealtine. All the fires across the country would be extinguished to mark the end of the winter, and a great fire that could be seen for miles around would then be lit at dawn on the Hill of Tara, this symbolized the dawn of a new year. Patrick sought to hijack this pagan practice. He lit a huge fire here on the Hill of Slane. This burned throughout the night before the Kings warriors managed to capture Patrick and haul him back to Tara to answer to the King. Legend has it that Patrick then managed to perform many feats and miracles to prove to the King that the Christian God was far more powerful than the old Gods, and in the famous story he used a three leaved Shamrock to explain the mysteries of Christianity to the King. While the King had no wish to convert to Christianity himself, he was convinced enough to allow Patrick to continue on his mission to spread Christianity across Ireland.
Again historians question and dispute the legend. This history of Christianity in Ireland was written just two centuries after the events being described. This meant it was still important to the Christian scribes to show that the Old Gods had been defeated in their own heartland by the Godly Patrick, allowing a clear path for the new religion to become the dominant faith in the country. In the few writings actually ascribed to Patrick himself, he never mentions Slane or Tara, and it is possible that he never even ventured there. However as the Christian monks and scribes were generally the only literate people at the time, we only have one version of the story. However we do know that the site was important to the early Irish Church, as a monastery was founded on the hill by St. Erc who died in 514 AD. This monastery is mentioned a number of times in the Annals of Ireland as being an important centre of early Irish law. It is also mentioned for a number of Viking raids that struck the site. Most notably in 948 AD when it is recorded that the 'abbot of Slane was taken prisoner and died in pagan hands', and two years later in 950 AD the; 'bell-tower of Slane was burned, together with a particularly fine bell and the crozier of the patron saint, and the lector and many people were burned after they took refuge with the monastery's valuables in the tower'.
Though nothing remains above ground of the early 6th century monastery, today visitors to the Hill of Slane can find a superbly preserved 16th Century Franciscan Church and College.
These remains are a wonderful place to explore. Both the church and college are thought to date to 1512 when Sir Christopher Fleming, Baron of Slane, founded the site for the Franciscan order. The church has a particularly fine bell tower with a large gothic window. See if you can spot the strange stone head leering from above the windows of the tower on one side of the church.
The college was established to serve the church. It housed four priests, four choristers and four lay-brothers. It was constructed around an open quadrangle, with the priests quarters on the northern side. You can still explore some of the great original features like the staircases (please do take extreme care in wet-weather), and see the fireplaces, window mouldings and even a double garderobe (a good old classy medieval toilet).
As you explore the ruins keep an eye open for some of the superb stone sculpture and carvings you can discover on the Hill of Slane. Like this dragon or wyvern (left). If you go inside the large vaulted room on your right as you enter the college, you can also see a large collection of decorated stone fragments.
The Hill of Slane is a great place to visit. The site is free to enter and has a large carpark. However please make sure that you take care (especially with small children) inside the ruins of the college, as the staircases may become dangerous in wet weather. There are a number of other great sites to see nearby such as the Hill of Tara. If you'd like to hear about the wonderful Hill of Tara and discover why it is one of Ireland's most important historical sites try our audioguide available for just €1.99 from www.abartaaudioguides.com – full of original music and sound effects it's a wonderfully immersive and fun experience. Follow the link for a free preview.
The Hill of Slane is well signposted from Slane, just head north up the hill on the N2 through Slane and take a left turn at Chapel Street/N2.
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4-Man Team Plans To Row From California To Hawaii Next Summer
A four-man team of rowers is gearing up for an ocean going adventure in the summer of 2014 when they hope to make a crossing of a portion of the Pacific Ocean, traveling from California to Hawaii over a five-week period and covering more than 2100 nautical miles (3889 km).
The team, which consists of Fraser Hart, Sam Collins, Colin Parker and James Wight, will be taking part in the first ever New Ocean Wave Great Pacific Race in which they hope to be the fastest team to row from Monterey, CA to Honolulu, HI. Calling themselves Team Pacific Rowers, they'll hit the water next June along with all the other entrants into the event, most of whom will row in shifts for 24-hours per day as they attempt to complete the ocean crossing.
The boys are currently looking for corporate sponsorship and are even holding a contest to name their boat as they gear up for the event next summer. With eight months to go until the race, I'm sure they're also busy training, getting their gear together and prepping for five weeks at sea.
I've written about the Great Pacific Race a time or two when it was first announced. Obviously it is still some time off, but I will certainly be covering it more fully next summer once the teams all gather in California and hit the water. There is a similar race held in the Atlantic each year (in fact, it begins in a little over a month) so it'll be interesting to see how this new event goes over.
The team, which consists of Fraser Hart, Sam Collins, Colin Parker and James Wight, will be taking part in the first ever New Ocean Wave Great Pacific Race in which they hope to be the fastest team to row from Monterey, CA to Honolulu, HI. Calling themselves Team Pacific Rowers, they'll hit the water next June along with all the other entrants into the event, most of whom will row in shifts for 24-hours per day as they attempt to complete the ocean crossing.
The boys are currently looking for corporate sponsorship and are even holding a contest to name their boat as they gear up for the event next summer. With eight months to go until the race, I'm sure they're also busy training, getting their gear together and prepping for five weeks at sea.
I've written about the Great Pacific Race a time or two when it was first announced. Obviously it is still some time off, but I will certainly be covering it more fully next summer once the teams all gather in California and hit the water. There is a similar race held in the Atlantic each year (in fact, it begins in a little over a month) so it'll be interesting to see how this new event goes over.
Video: Eagle Steals Video Camera, Carries It 68 Miles Away
An eagle, that appears to be suffering from kleptomania, recently swiped a motion-sensing camera from a crocodile trap in Australia and carried it some 68 miles before deciding it wasn't something the bird could eat. The camera was later found by Aboriginal hunters, who returned it to the proper owners. Naturally, they were a bit surprised to find their camera so far away from its original location but when they looked at the footage, they understood how it got there. The thieving bird is even caught on film at the end of the clip in what could quite possibly be the first avian selfie.
Ahenny High Crosses, County Tipperary
Located near to the village of Ahenny in County Tipperary you can find two of the most important high crosses in Ireland. The crosses are inside a small graveyard with a church dedicated to St. Crispin, this churchyard presumably sits on the site of an important early medieval monastery. No traces above ground can be seen of this early monastery, apart from the two high crosses.
The North Cross |
They appear to be replicating decoration found on earlier metalwork crosses, possibly suggesting that these crosses are important in tracing the development of Irish high crosses from small decorative metal crosses to the large stone examples depicting biblical scenes such as the fine examples at Monasterboice Co. Louth or Castledermot in Co. Kildare. That the crosses at Ahenny are replicating in stone what was in metalwork is most clear when you see the five rounded bosses on the cross heads which clearly imitates the enamel or glass studs on the metal examples.
The South Cross |
The base of each cross has been heavily weathered and is extremely difficult to make out today, but it is believed that the North Cross base depicts a chariot procession, a funeral procession, Adam naming the animals and the mission of the apostles. The South Cross base is thought to depict hunting scenes, Daniel in the Lions Den and The Fall of Man.
Both crosses also have removable stone caps, possibly representing Bishop's mitres, these caps seem to be a feature of the Ossory group of High Crosses.
To get to Ahenny, travel from Carrick-on-Suir on the R697 heading north for approximately six kilometres. Turn left at Scrogh Bridge then take the next right. Travel about two kilometres down this road to just past the church. The crosses can be seen in the middle of a small graveyard, located in a field just outside the small village of Ahenny.
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Everest Update: Speed Attempt By Pemba Dorje
MountEverest.net is reporting that Pemba Dorje will attempt a new speed climb with the intention of summitting Everest, and Lhotse in the same day.
Dorje set the current Everest speed record back in 2004 with a mind bending 8 hour 10 min ascent from the South Side, with the use of oxygen. It that wasn't enough, he also intends to spend more than 24 hours on the summit of Everest to beat the record currently held by the late Babu Chirri Sherpa. Dorje will attempt that record without the use of supplemental oxygen however.
Meanwhile the Saturday Morning Namche market was crowded with locals, as usual, as well as plenty of climbers making their way up the Khumbu Valley. More and more teams are nearing Everest, and thus traffic in the area has picked up dramatically. New teams to the area include a former Malaysian Deputy Minister who will be leading a team of 11 and Alex Abramov's 7-Summit's Club.
Seems like things are going according to plan. We should start to see more dispatches from Base Camp soon, and teams will be making their advanced camps over the next few weeks. You just have to love the Spring climbing season.
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