India Khumbamela from SENSES on Vimeo.

Here's a movie by Spanish photographer Luciano Rodriguez Pena, made during a recent trip to India. It features two main events during the first three months of this year: Haridwar Kumbh Mela and Holi. I liked the colors (as befits a country such as India) and the tremendous energy which the movie imparts. I wish there was a different soundtrack to it, but the stills and the movie make up for that.

Luciano is a Nature & Travel photographer, and teaches digital photography in various photography schools in Madrid.

Holi is a festival of color and was recently celebrated all over India. It's an exuberant festival which aims at infusing fresh hope to people as it marks the end of the winter days and the start of summer. The Kumbh Mela in Haridwar is a three month-long bathing festival along the Ganges river which occurs every 12 years, and about 50 million Hindu devotees performing their prayers and washing away their sins in river's waters are expected in this holy city.

Thailand's welcome mat rolled back in

Last night Roland drove his friend to LAX. His friend bought a home and a business and is moving abroad, to a smiley, peaceful country we visit all the time: Thailand. When they got to the airport they were informed that there are no flights being allowed into Bangkok and that both its airports are closed. There are rumors of a military coup as protesters seem to have forced the government to have fled to Chiang Mai way in the north. Protesters say they will keep the airports closed down until the government resigns. The government says it won't resign. Government supporters are threatening violence.

Thailand’s tourism minister, Weerasak Kohsurat, said the government would soon begin flying thousands of stranded tourists out of the country using military bases near the Thai capital.

Tourists would be flown by Thai Airways to Singapore or Malaysia for connecting flights, The Associated Press reported.

Government officials also said Thursday they would allow commercial airlines to use one of the military airports, U-Tapao.

Used by the United States military during the Vietnam War, U-Tapao can handle only a fraction of the daily average of 100,000 passengers who flew in and out of Suvarnabhumi International Airport last year.

U-Tapao’s terminal has the capacity to hold 400 people and the parking lot has about 100 spaces. The airport is about 120 miles from Bangkok, a two-hour drive.

There have been a couple of explosions and some gunfire at the main international airport and a few injuries, and thousands of stranded tourists. Normally, Thailand is one of my favorite places to go for a vacation. Reports from stranded tourists all seem to agree on one point: the airlines are hopelessly unhelpful. Tourists seem unsympathetic with the protesters-- or at least with their choice of tactics. I'm sure glad we picked nice peaceful Mali this year. Meanwhile, Roland's friend was offered a flight to Taiwan and one night free in a hotel and the best wishes of the airline that the airports will be open by Saturday. It could be worse; he could have been in Mumbai.

Photo © Tewfic El-Sawy-All Rights Reserved
The troubling events in the streets of Bangkok reminded me of the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market near the capital, which is a must-stop for foreign and local tourists, as well as food lovers. I've visited it almost every time I stop in Thailand, when I'm en route to Bhutan, Cambodia or Bali.

Yes, it's a tourist trap to a large degree but the food served by the women on their floating dugouts-kitchens is spectacular. I'm told that getting there very early in the morning will ensure a tourist-free experience, but I doubt it.

I'm traveling today, hence this short post.

With the Summer camping season just about to get underway, Gadling has a couple of tent stories for us today.

First, check out this tent that comes with a seven inch installable solar panel to collect the sun's rays during the day, then use them to light the tend after dark. The article says that the stored up energey can be used to power the "tent's integrated LED rope lights; to operate the removable hand-held flashlight that hangs from the center of the tent; or to charge a completely separate set of batteries."

Obviously this thing is aimed more at the camping crowd than the backpacking set, but still an interesting option. The four person version of the tent runs $206 while the six person model is $250.

If the solar powered tent doesn't work for you, perhaps you can find what you need on FindMeATent.com. As Gadling notes the site allows users to compare more than 800 different tents, from 57 brands, and read a growing library of user posted reviews. I'm sure you'll be able to find a tent to suit all your needs.

In the summer of 2008 the mountaineering world was shocked at the events that unfolded on K2, the second tallest mountain in the world at 8611 meters (28,251 ft). Over the course of a few days, running from July 31 to August 2, a total of 11 people died on the mountain, most following a successful summit bid. In the months that followed, many stories of heroism and survival followed, as did a bit of controversy, as the climbers, along with the rest of the world, attempted to figure out just what happened.

The events that took place on K2 during that fateful season are the subject of a new film entitled The Summit, which as been in theaters for the past week. Over the weekend I finally got the opportunity to catch this powerful documentary and although I went into it knowing most of what happened, I still found it to be extremely tense and enthralling.

For those who aren't familiar with the story, on July 31, 2008 a large group of climbers moved up K2 amidst great weather on a summit bid. Over the course of the following days, a series of events led to the worst tragedy that the mountain has ever seen. Everything from logistical errors to late summits conspired to put the climbers in danger, but the situation was made all the worse when a large serac hanging over a portion of the mountain known as the Bottleneck, collapsed down the face, sweeping away the fixed ropes that the teams would need to descend. Some managed to down-climb without the ropes, others fell to their death. By the time the dust had settled, 11 people were killed and several more were injured or suffering from exposure.

The film does a good job of blending actual footage from the 2008 season with scenes that were reenacted for dramatic effect. Director Nick Ryan fills time between those scenes with interviews with the actual survivors, each of whom shares their own very personal experiences from those difficult days on the mountain.


Over the course of the film's 1 hour, 40 minute run time, the tale unfolds in stilted fashion. At times the main focus is on what exactly happened on those disastrous few days but numerous flashbacks to weeks – and in some cases years - earlier help to fill in some gaps. Much of that information provides context and history on the mountain and the climbers, but there were times when it felt shoehorned in to add padding. This was especially true of the scenes that featured legendary Italian climber Walter Bonatti, who was there to discuss the first successful climb of the mountain in 1954. But because his tale isn't told very well, his presence in the film probably left some audience members wondering exactly why he was in the film.

Because I wrote extensively about the tragedy back when it happened, I had a good idea of what went down before I ever set foot in the theater. Still, The Summit did put everything into perspective as the story more-or-less unfolded in chronological order. It helps to put the perspective exactly what happened, which essentially can be broken down to being a series of unfortunate events. There wasn't one or two big mistakes that you could point to that led to the disaster, but instead it was several small choices and decisions that were eventually exasperated by the collapse of the serac.

If you have followed the story over the years, you probably know that some controversy erupted after the fact due to shifting stories by Italian climber Marco Confortola. One of the casualties on the mountain that day was Ger McDonnell, an Irish climber who was much loved in the mountaineering community. In the aftermath of the K2 disaster, Confortola said he and McDonnell attempted to help injured Korean climbers down the mountain but due to exhaustion and the lack of fixed lines, they were unable to help. Marco then claimed that he tried to get Ger to go down together, but he instead inexplicably turned back up the mountain, where he died. McDonnell's friends and family don't believe that is the case however, as they have asserted that the Irishman would have stayed to help the injured climbers. They suspect that he was there, with the Koreans, and that Confortola abandoned him and went down on his own. It was later reported that McDonnell was seen being swept up in another ice collapse.

What really happened that day will remain a mystery, as Confortola is sticking with his story – at least for now. But the film seems to have two agendas, the first is to tell the story of the tragedy and the second is to clear McDonnell's name. It succeeds to a degree in both areas.

So, is The Summit worth seeing in the theater? If you're a mountaineering junkie, then I'd say without a doubt. It puts into context the events that took place on K2 five years ago and fills in some gaps of the story. It also allows us to see the mountaineers that were there in a very real, human light. Watching Ceclia Skog talk about the final moments of her husbands life was incredible moving for example.

I do think the film does a good job of explaining most things for non-climbers to absorb what is happening as well, although it probably won't shed any clarity on why mountaineers go to these big, dangerous mountains in the first place.

It is difficult to say that you actually "like" a film like this one. After all, it is about the real life deaths of 11 climbers. Still, it is easy to recognize that it is a well made documentary that treats the subject matter with respect and reverence. It is a also a powerful film that will stay with you after you've left the theater, which is exactly what it is meant to do I suppose.

Find out more at the film's official website, including where it is showing near you.

The very active week in the Antarctic continues today with teams making slow, but steady, progress across the frozen continent. Everyone seems to be falling into a rhythm now and even the weather seems to have improved. But, as with all extreme environments, that can change quickly and no one seems to be getting too complacent with the current conditions.

As expected, Richard Parks relaunched his bid to set a new speed record for skiing from Hercules Inlet to the South Pole yesterday. He reports that he faced a strong headwind for most of the day, and of course he is skiing up hill at the moment. Still, Parks managed to cover 31.5 km (19 miles), which is a solid start for his speed attempt. He'll need to pick up the pace in the days ahead, but for now he seems content with his progress. Just 1118.5 km (696 miles) to go and the clock continues to tick.

Jumping over to the Beardmore Glacier, the Scott Expedition has been forced to abandon their skis for now and don crampons instead. They've hit a large expanse of blue ice, which is incredibly hard and smooth, leaving no traction for the skis. It has made pulling the sleds a lot easier, as they effortlessly glide across the ice at the moment. The team started at along the coast at 43 meters (141 ft) above sea level, but have now climbed up to 1014 meters (3326 ft) as they continue to make their way up to the Antarctic Plateau. They've now been out on the ice for 43 days and still have about 2092 km (1300 miles) to go on their round-trip journey to the South Pole and back to the coast.


Aussie Geoff Wilson was dismayed to discover the promised winds have not appeared as predicted. You may recall that he is kite skiing to the South Pole and had hoped to be making great progress on that journey, but unpredictable winds have stymied his attempts so far, leaving him no choice but to ski along like everyone else. The doldrums continued today with practically no wind to assist him, which is disheartening for Wilson, who may not reach his goal if the winds don't turn in his favor. Sadly, the forecast doesn't look great in that regard for the next few days either. Geoff also reports that he had a call on his sat phone from Faysal Hanneche, who was also attempting to kite to the Pole. It turns out Faysal has injured his knee in a fall during the high winds of a few days back and won't be able to continue his expedition. Details are scarce at the moment, but it seems he'll be evacuated from the ice as soon as possible.

The three teams racing in the 2013 South Pole Allied Challenge get a much needed break today. This is their first mandatory rest day in which all teams must take 24 hours off before resuming their race to the South Pole. This is day 5 of the expedition and they still have 10 or 11 days to go before they are done. They happen to be well ahead of all of the other skiers because they started their journey at the 87th degree, rather than along the coast. Still, they are making good time and progress has been steady, if exhausting, for the skiers so far.

South Pole cyclist Daniel Burton continues to struggle. Yesterday he was battered by katabatic winds that made it nearly impossible for him to make much progress. With that in mind, he set up camp early and tried to stay out of those winds as best he could. Later in the day, when they had died down, he resumed his ride, albeit at a painfully slow pace. Once he hits the plateau, things should improve somewhat, but until then it is an uphill battle.

Finally, 16-year old Lewis Clarke has been making steady progress on his attempt to become the youngest person to ever ski the full length to the Pole. He and his guide, Carl Alvey wont' be setting any speed records, but they are putting in the miles they need to complete the journey in a reasonable time. So far they've been covering 21 km (13 miles) per day as they struggle up to the plateau as well. They should pick up the pace nicely once they reach that point and again as they get closer to their destination. Good weather has been on their side so far though and we all know that won't last for long in Antarctica.

That's all from the frozen continent for today. I'll update again next week as the news merits it.

National Geographic Adventure has posted an excellent interview with rock climber Mike Libecki about a recent climb he made in South America where he not only had to face the challenges of the rock, but also nasty ticks, deadly scorpions, and leaping tarantulas.

Libecki is a well known and experienced rock climber who has put up routes all over the World, but this one sounds like it was pretty amazing for what went on off the rock as well. In total it took about two weeks to make the climb, as he and his partner Kyle Dempster, had to shuttle their gear in through dense jungle. But once they were assembled in camp, it took about five days to scale the 2000+ feet to the summit.

Libecki also discusses his love of climbing solo, his own "logistical checklist", his thoughts on the one piece of gear he can't do without, and the proverbial "what's next" on his list of places to climb. In this case, the answer Papua New Guinea. Interesting stuff.

The Grand Trunk Road played an important role in India's history at every step of its way. Some 3500 years ago, with the Aryan invasion of the subcontinent, it served as a corridor starting at the Khyber Pass winding eastward between the Himalayas and the Thar Desert onto the Gangetic plain. Hinduism, Jainism, Sikhism, and Buddhism spread through it, and Muslim proselytizers traveled on it. Since 1947, Pakistan controls the 300-mile segment between Peshawar and Lahore, while the remaining 1,250 miles link six Indian states, making it lifeline of northern India.

Nowadays, the road used by Alexander the Great, Ibn Battutah, Mughals invaders and other conquerors and the just curious, is ruled by truck drivers roaring through countless tiny villages.

NPR features a hybrid multimedia project in which its journalists travel the route and tell the stories of young people living there, who make up the majority of the populations in India and Pakistan.

GPS technology company Garmin has released yet another GPS watch for consumers to ponder over. This time it seems less fitness/sports oriented and more aimed at a law enforcement/military crowd, although it brings a host of options that I'm sure many outdoor enthusiasts will find appealing. It also happens to deliver them in quite an attractive package.

The new watch is called the tactix and it retails for $450. It sports a high-sensitivey GPS sensor with automatically calibrating altimeter and a 3-axis compass. It's built in memory allows the device to store up to 1000 waypoints and 10,000 track points, and allows the wearer to quickly and easily retrace their steps back to previous positions. In a nod to its military roots, the U.S. version of the watch is preloaded with tidal data and all versions include Jumpmaster software for airborne personnel. It also features sun/moon data and a calendar for hunting and fishing. A stopwatch, countdown timer, world clock, and alarm functionality are all built in as well of course, and as with most GPS enabled watches, this one will tell you distance traveled, speed, calories burned, etc. The tactix will also pair with Garmin's heart rate monitor and bike pod to measure performance and will even control the company's VIRB and VIRB Elite action cameras.

The tactix is designed to be rugged and survive in the outdoors. Its case is tough and durable, making it water resistant down to 50 meters. It's all black styling is designed to be non-reflective and subtle in nature, while the built in battery can reportedly go 50 hours between charges with GPS enabled and 5 weeks when being used as a standard watch. That performance is actually quite good for a watch of this kind.

The new watch is available now.

This news is a week old now, but sue me, I've been busy. ;)

Martin Strel has completed his 5,265km swim down the length of the Amazon River according to the Globe and Mail.

I first reported on his attempt a few months back, and now he's done it. The swim began in Peru and proceeded through Brazil, and along the way he encountered piranha, sickness, and exhaustion as he averaged more than 80km per day. At one point, he was even told by doctors to give up on his quest, and yet he pressed on, setting another world record for long distance swimming.

I can't even imagine swimming that far. The endurance and determination for such a task is simply amazing. Congrats Martin!

Thanks Adventure Blog

Actually, it wasn't even until today that I realized that the name of this airline is pronounced in terms of an acronym (E-V-A) rather than one of the Desperate Housewives. Anyway, the last time I took this airline was many years ago...far before they joined Star Alliance. That was also when they were one of the first airlines to have a premium economy seat; I could hardly remember what it was like, but surely the current premium economy seat has changed since then. It's now called Elite Class, for starters.

Interestingly, our corporate travel team found that Elite Class was still far cheaper than SQ Economy Class. Of course, these were not business class seats, but they were far better than SQ Economy (or UA Economy Plus). You actually got a good six inches or so of an armrest between you and the person next to you, not to mention a rather comfortable cradle position if you wanted to recline and kick your legs up halfway. Sure, the food was forgettable, but I'd still much rather take this than SQ Economy. Gotta love Star Alliance!

It might be interesting to see if these guys are worth taking to the US next time, assuming that the layover in Taoyuan isn't too painful. Oh - and in case you're wondering what that green drink is above, it was their "Evergreen Special," which I ordered out of sheer curiosity given that it was named after their corporate parent. It turned out to be a rather off-putting combination of Midori and vodka, but nonetheless I guess I can see the corporate color scheme that they were trying to go for with this thing.

I'm not a big fan of Akashi. So when I first heard about them opening this place at the basement of the new Robinsons Orchard (260 Orchard Road #B1-02A, 6737-5581), I didn't really make any effort to come here. Still, it came up as a suggestion for dinner tonight, so now was the chance to finally see if it were any good.

It was much better than I had thought it would be. Granted, the gyoza skin was not the texture that I was expecting (and the filling fueled some delightful dragon breath), but ultimately these piping hot things were still fun to eat. Perhaps much more exciting was the jyajya men, the noodles of which were tasty enough that I wolfed down that little bowl in seconds.

Yes, I like this place better than Keisuke's Gyoza King, in part perhaps simply because it kinda feels like I'm being force fed over there. Here, the portions are nice and small, making it easy to come back for a little snack. Either that, or maybe I'll just go over to Ohsho, who still has some of the best gyoza from what I can remember.

St. Patrick's Well is situated in a tranquil valley to the west of Clonmel, close to the village of Marlfield in County Tipperary. It is a beautiful setting for this holy site which has been revered for centuries. There are over 3,000 holy wells in Ireland and St. Patrick's Well is thought to be one of the largest in the country. Holy wells are sacred places where natural springs or man-made hollows that collect water are thought to have a religious significance because of their association with a saint.

At St. Patrick's well, legend has it that St. Patrick stopped off at this valley on his journey through South Tipperary and Waterford where he reputedly converted the King of Munster to Christianity at the Rock of Cashel. St. Patrick was reputed to have stopped here to bathe and baptise local people, however it is unlikely that Patrick was ever in this part of Ireland, as he does not mention travelling to the south of the country in his writings Confessio or Letter to the Soldiers of Coroticus, in fact the story of Patrick's journey in Munster comes from a source written nearly five hundred years after Patrick's death – the 10th Century Life of St. Declan, but despite this, St. Patrick’s association with the well lives on to this day.

Like many Holy wells around the country, St. Patrick’s Well is said to have many curative properties in local belief and folklore. It is said that by drinking the water from the well or even washing in the well, ailments like sore lips, sore eyes and many other chronic diseases can be cured. Indeed, it is thought that the well at St. Patricks has magical properties as the water that flows through the well never freezes, this is more likely due to the fact that the well is sited over natural springs that maintain a constant temperature.

The Well itself has been enclosed by a circular wall. The natural water that bubbles up is channeled through two narrow stone cut openings that an archaeologist has identified as possible flumes from an early medieval mill. The water descends into a large shallow pool, from where it then flows into a narrow stream, a tributary of the River Suir, which flows about a couple of kilometres south of the site.

Standing on a small island in the pool is the small sandstone cross, thought to be one of the oldest archaeological monuments at St. Patrick's Well. This cross is thought to date to the 8th century. It was originally positioned close to the church on marshy ground, but a programme of renovation and reconstruction was carried out at this site in the 1960's and the cross was moved to its current position.

The stone church which stands to the south appears to date to the fifteenth or sixteenth century. There is a historical record of the Abbot of Inislounaght being buried at the church in 1617. Inislounaght was once a thriving bustling Cistercian Abbey but there are no traces left of the Abbey today. However, it is thought that some architectural fragments were brought from the Abbey to St. Patrick's Well and incorporated into the parish church. Within the now roofless Parish church there is an altar tomb dating from 1622, dedicated to the White family.

St. Patrick’s Well is a great example of this type of archaeological monument that transcends the boundaries between Paganism and Christianity. If you visit this peaceful and tranquil spot it is easy to see why it was chosen hundreds or even thousands of years ago as a place of worship as there is a clear connection between the natural and sacred world at this site.

The easiest way to get to St. Patrick's well is to take the left hand turn after the Poppyfields shopping centre on the Cahir Road. Follow this narrow road until you come to a crossroads, turn right and continue on this road, there will be parking spaces to your left and the Well is accessed through a brightly painted gate. There are signposts leading to the site. Access to the well is down a number of steps which bring you down into the sheltered valley. If you have time, visit Marlfield lake which is close by, this is a man-made lake which is now home to a wild bird sanctuary.

If you like our images you may be interested to know that we offer a selection for sale at http://www.12greengiraffes.com/abarta.html including an image of the serene St. Patrick's Well.

I'm agnostic on Franz Ferdinand's music. Their manager is an old friend of mine; otherwise I probably wouldn't have ever heard of them. I wound up liking "Take Me Out" well enough but it didn't wind up on my iPod's most-played list. I can't say I paid the Glasgow-based rockers much attention. After hearing an engaging and witty interview with lead singer Alex Kapranos today on NPR, I realize I need to go back and pay closer attention. Before he was a rock star, Kapranos was a chef-- as was Bob Hardy, the band's bass player; they learned all about restaurants from master chef Martin Teplitzsky who forged a kitchen team and played the Stooges and the Velvet Underground all day. And then Kapranos started writing a rocker's-eyed-view restaurant column for the Guardian which was released by Penguin this month as a book. (Here's an example of one of his columns/chapters, eating in Prague.) Sound Bites is all about the band's two and a half trips around the world, what they ate, who they ate it with and... well lots of color.

Just as I was about to switch the radio station to Air America, Kapranos, started talking about how to avoid the horrors of bad food on the road. I figured that had to be better than anything Ed Schultz was likely to talk about so I stayed and listened. A lot of what he talked about-- prodded, although not for no reason, by the host-- were "the weirdest things I ever ate." like deep fried insects in Bangkok (tasted fine, he said, but then you have to deal with the mandibles that get stuck between your teeth), bulls' balls in Buenos Aires (criadillas, worst thing he ever ate, kind of metalic-tasting), fishbrain bread in Finland and that Japanese blowfish that can kill you if it isn't prepared properly. And haggis.

Ok, so the title to this entry makes it sound like I'm going to a Star Trek convention. But what I'm really talkinga bout is this cool website called Trekkingvision which offers some some amazing suggestions for great treks all over the World.

The site already has some great treks listed on six continents and a handy Google map to show where they are located, so you shouldn't have any problems finding something in an area you would like to explore. They also have detailed information about the different hikes which include such classics as The Annapurna Circuit, The Inca Trail, and the Machame Route on Kilimanjaro which I recently trekked.

All in all, there is some great information on the site, which has plans to add an RSS feed and a blog soon as well. We'll definitely have to keep our eyes on this one. Looks great so far!

Thanks Best Hikes Blog!

In a couple of suprise moves today, MountEverest.net is reporting that summit bids have been launched on both Everest and Dhaulagiri and in grand fasion.

First up, on Dhaulagiri a group of climbers have set out from Base Camp today to go straight for the summit, fast and light. Just five days ago, this same group, made up of Horia Colibasanu, Iñaki Ochoa, Jorge Egocheaga and Joby Ogwyn, was turned back on that same mountain. Currently there is calm weather on the seventh highest peak in the World, and the team doesn't want to let that go to waste. They haven't specifically said that they are on a speed push, but their actions say otherwise. If everything holds true, they could summit as early as tomorrow.

In other news, over on Everest, two Kazak climbers have set off from ABC for their summit bid on the North Col route. The two are also making a speed run, with out supplemental oxygen, pre-established high camps, or fixed ropes on the upper sections. If the pair make it to the top, it'll certainly be an impressive feat, not to mention the first summit of the year.

In other Everest news, four American demonstrators were arrested today at Base Camp. The group held signs saying "One World, One Dream, Free Tibet 2008" and wore t-shirts that said "No Torch through Tibet" in obvious reference to the Chinese bringing the Olypic Torch to the summit of Everest via the North Side.

The other Big Story (I say a bit tongue in cheek) is the lack of Yaks on Everest this year. This isn't the first time I've heard complaints of a Yak Shortage, but now even Nives Meroi is having problems finding the pack beasts to help her bring gear up to BC. Fear not though. The Yaks aren't being mutilated by aliens or anything, they've simply been reserved by the large Chinese contigent and two other big commercial climbing teams. Hopefully there will be a boom in Yak births this year, as I'm sure next year's Chinese team will be even larger.

Outdoor gear company Quechua had partnered with budget tech firm Archos to produce a ruggedized Android cell phone that is designed for adventurers who can be a little rough on their gear. The phone, which begins shipping this week in some markets, if resistant to water, snow, cold, dust and other elements, while also being designed to survive a significant drop.

The new phone will retail for €230 (roughly $310) and comes equipped with Android 4.1 (Jellybean). It is powered by a Qualcomm 1.2 GHz, quad-core processor, has 1GB of RAM and 4GB of internal storage, which can be expanded through the use of SD cards. It also has a large 5" display and 3500 mAh battery that is said to be capable of 22 hours of talk time between charges.

But what sets the phone apart from most others is that it meets IP 54 certification. That means it has been built to survive the demands of the outdoors, including submersion in water, being used in sandy or dusty environments and withstanding the shock from being dropped. It is also resistant to both hot and cold temperatures, which could make it a great travel phone for those who visit extreme environments.

The phone does have a few knocks against it before it ever hits the streets. For starters, it doesn't have 4G data capabilities. The built-in 4GB of storage is a bit anemic as well, even though you do have the ability to add to that with memory cards. Android 4.1 is no longer the latest version of that operating system either, although it is a solid, modern OS in terms of features and stability. Still, for the price, I would expect a bit more out of the phone. You might be better served with buying a more capable device at a lower price and investing in a good cast to protect it. Just my two cents.

The 2013 Antarctic expedition season continues to ramp up as expected. As we near the end of the November, the number of teams that are preparing to hit the ice continues to grow as well. It is beginning to look like it will be another very busy season at the bottom of the world and soon there will be numerous teams skiing across the ice. For now though, there remain just a few in the field as weather continues to be the key factor as to when these teams can officially get underway.

The one man who is watching the weather very closely is Richard Parks. He updated his blog yesterday, sharing some insights into what he is planning for his attempt at a speed record for skiing from Hercules Inlet to the South Pole. At the moment, Richard remains at Union Glacier where he is watching the weather very closely and plotting his next move. The weather for flying to Hercules looks to be improving, but he is also hoping for good conditions for the start of his expedition so that he can pass through a dangerous crevasse field without battling the elements along the way. Right now he is estimating that he'll fly to his starting point on Friday or Saturday of this week, then assess the weather again before deciding when he'll get underway. Patience is the name of the game at the moment, but waiting is not always easy on a person both physically and psychologically. 

There are a host of other adventurers who are waiting to start their expeditions as well, but most of them are still stuck in Punta Arenas, Chile. That includes the likes of Chris and Marty Fagan, who have spent their first few days in the warehouse at ALE getting their gear and supplies organized. Veteran polar explorer Antony Jinman is now in Punta as well and will be going through the same process before he begins his expedition to 90ºS. South Pole cyclists Daniel Burton is there as well and waiting for word on when he can begin. His bike was expected to arrive yesterday and it'll take some time to get it rebuilt and set-up for the expedition ahead. After that, he'll be ready to get underway. Daniel is hoping to become the first person to ride a bike to the South Pole. 

Ben Saunders and Tarka L'Herpiniere of the Scott Expedition are experiencing some good conditions at the moment. They continue to knock off solid mileage each day as they continue their journey to the Pole, and eventually back to their starting point along the coast. They report warm temperatures (relatively speaking of course), low winds and a smooth surface right now, which is making their progress much smoother. They've also passed through the third week of their expedition, which is often when teams begin to hit their stride. To put things in perspective however, they still have 1588 miles (2555 km) to go before they are done. 

Aussie Geoff Wilson is off and moving as well. He's actually kiting to the South Pole and not simply skiing as previously reported. So far conditions have been challenging for him but he is now starting to make progress. Early on, the winds were too high to be safe and as a result he ended up spending four days stranded in a tent. He's eager to get back on the trail today however and hopefully start to make some real progress. Using a kite to catch the wind can be very effective and it is possible for kiters to knock off large chunks of mileage in a given day. Without the wind however, they are reduced to skiing just like everyone else. Lets hope Geoff can really get going now. 

It is an exciting time in Antarctica at the moment. There are so many teams lining up right now that we will soon have a steady flow of news and progress reports. It looks like it'll be a good year at the bottom of the world with lots of exciting action to follow. More to come soon. 

Photo © Munem Wasif -All Rights Reserved
Here's a response in many more ways than one to Howard W. French's Old Shanghai galleries which I posted about yesterday.

It's by well-known Bangladeshi photographer Munem Wasif, whose trademark gritty high-contrast black & white photographs seem to be the common denominator amongst many of his equally talented compatriot photographers.

Old Dhaka -as we've seen of the old neighborhoods of Shanghai- offers endless scenes of unadulterated humanity to photographers. The Western affinity for privacy doesn't exist here. Mothers bathe their children in the open, while the elderly help one another to perform basic needs and people live virtually in the open without shame or embarrassment.

It's quite evident from this photo essay that Munem Wasif (and others like him) are photographers who have the ability to achieve a no-holds barred intimacy with their subjects. Achieving this closeness undoubtedly enhances the humanness of the subjects we see in their pictures.

Old Dhaka is featured on the incomparable ZoneZero, the site dedicated to photography founded 16 years ago by Pedro Meyer.

Knockroe Passage tomb is located in a picturesque setting on the slopes above the Lingaun River and old slate quarries which were abandoned in the early 1900's. The site dates to around 3,000 BC and has many similarities to the far more famous examples such as Newgrange and Knowth in the Brú na Bóinne complex in County Meath.

Originally Knockroe would have been a similar tomb to Newgrange, albeit on a smaller scale. It is likely that it too would have had an earthen mound surrounded by large kerbstones. However unlike Newgrange, Knockroe has two burial chambers, located at the eastern and western sides of the feature. These tombs are exposed, and had long ago lost their earthen cover.  Many of the stones lining the passageways of these tombs at Knockroe are highly decorated with megalithic art such as spirals, hollowed 'cup marks', and zig-zags. You can still find them in their original locations, and when you see them it is impossible not to wonder about the possible meaning of the decorations - was it purely decorative or did it have a deeper symbolism, and what messages may be in that symbolism? You can also still see the quartz which possibly would have formed a wall around the entrance to the passageways.

Also like Newgrange, Knockroe is aligned with the Winter Solstice. Every year around the 21st December people gather at Knockroe to witness the sun setting in perfect alignment with the length of western tomb.

Knockroe is one of a group of tombs located in this region, all of which are aligned with the large
mound on the summit of Slievenamon in County Tipperary. Knockroe is one of those wonderful sites that you can't help to keep thinking about long after your visit, without being encumbered with its earthen mound, Knockroe is like the stony skeleton of a Neolithic passage tomb.

To get to Knockroe from Carrick on Suir, take the R697 going North, then take the left hand turn for the R698 and continue down this road, until you come to a crossroads, go left at this crossroads and continue straight on, through another smaller crossroads, after this take the next left and drive carefully down this road. The site will be located down this lane. The lanes are narrow and you may have to park your car at the top of the lane. The site is fenced off and situated on relatively dry ground but boots or reasonably sturdy footwear is still advised. The site is free to enter